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Conversational Threads

Vogue Pattern No. 2986

birdlady1 | Posted in Patterns on

I am doing a jacket for class.  We had to choose a pattern with specifications that the teacher required.  It also had to be a Vogue Pattern.  I chose Pattern No. 2986, which is lined close-fitting jacket that has welt pockets, back princess seams and two piece sleeves with vent.  Has anyone else done this pattern?

This class is to learn how to sew a jacket with bagged lining.  I have never lined a jacket before and i thought this course would be great.  I have also never interlined a jacket before.  The teacher said that it would hang better and I want to do it.  The teacher asked that we use polyester organza for the interlining.  I have been reading the pattern instrucitons and I know the pieces of the jacket that needs to have interfacing.  The pattern pieces are the front jacket, side panel, under collar, collar band, lower welt, upper welt, welt, back and front facing.  Should those pieces be interlined as well?  Also, should any other pieces that I have not listed be interlined?  We are to place the lining overtop of the interlining.  I also want to know if I should baste stitch the interlining pieces or sew them even those they are going to be covered with the lining material that is going to be sewn to the fabric? With the interlining, should it also be marked with the darts etc and sewn with darts, etc. as your fabric would be?  Should the lining be sewn with darts, etc?    I am preparing all this for Wednesday’s class.  I want to try and keep up with the class.

Thanks

 

Replies

  1. KharminJ | | #1

    Hello, BirdLady!

    I haven't made a "real" jacket in eons, and that was much simpler than your project, so I Google "Vogue 2986" to see what you've got in store. It is a really attractive jacket! Here's a terrific "how I did it" blog posting from "The Feed Dog - Where Sewing and Fashion Meet":http://www.thefeeddog.com/project-myway-16-philip-lim-31-knock-off-jacket.html#more-712 The author made some changes in the styling, but her experience with the pattern can give you some insights, anyway.Great Good Luck to you in your class - and remember that it's supposed to be both a learning experience and FUN! Bright Blessings!Kharmin

  2. jjgg | | #2

    Is there a reason you can't ask your instructor these questions? Why does she want you using a poly organza for the interlining? Are you interlining the lining or the jacket? I can't tell from what you wrote. Generally an underlining (if that's what you are doing - the two words are sometimes interchangeable) is attached to the fashion fabric and the two are treated as one.

    1. birdlady1 | | #3

      The teacher was speaking about it last week but I was unable to write everything down that she said.  I have been working on getting everything together this weekend and I wanted to know this information.  I can wait until this Wednesday but I don't want to get behind in the classes.

      Apparently the interlining is supposed to go after the fabric and then after the interlining we have to place the lining.  We are to use interfacing where needed on the other pieces.  She wants us to use polyester organza for the interlining as it helps in not showing seams on the outside of the jacket.  It also helps with the shape of the jacket as well.

       

      1. sewingkmulkey | | #4

        I generally use silk organza for underlinings (interlinings) especially if the fashion fabric is a natural fiber.  Since I live in the sticky, hot South I want all my clothing to "breath" and polyester organza just doesn't cut it!

        Good luck in your class.

        Karen

        1. birdlady1 | | #6

          Thanks for the information.  Most definitely, she did indicate that we must use polyester organza.  I cannot remember the reason why but she did specifically said that.  She said not to use silk organza as it does not breath.  I am taking my movie camera this time and am going to film how she does her welt pockets.  It is good to have it taped as you can go back to review if you forgot something. 

          As I indicated earlier, I have never lined a jacket or used interlining as well; so I am a bit unsure as to what needs to be done.  Most of the classmates are usually gone as soon as she has finished her lessons so it is hard to ask one of the other classmates.  I know there are some that are more experienced but I am still going to keep trying. 

          I have found that the rotary cutter is a great tool to use to cut your material as it gives a straighter line that cutting with scissors.  Also, I now cut my material on a hardboard.  It keeps the material from moving around and it is great when using the rotary cutter.  I was going to use plywood but I find the hardboard way better. 

          1. jjgg | | #7

            >>>>Thanks for the information. Most definitely, she did indicate that we must use polyester organza. I cannot remember the reason why but she did specifically said that. She said not to use silk organza as it does not breath.<<<<You must have this backwards. Silk is a natural fiber and will breath very well, polyester does not. Polyester is like a plastic sheet, it is synthetic, made from crude oil.I would double check with the teacher about this.>>>>>I have found that the rotary cutter is a great tool to use to cut your material as it gives a straighter line that cutting with scissors. Also, I now cut my material on a hardboard. It keeps the material from moving around and it is great when using the rotary cutter. I was going to use plywood but I find the hardboard way better.<<<<<Yes, a rotary cutter is a great tool, but you do need to know how to properly use a scissors to cut things. What do you mean by "hardboard" you should use a cutting mat when using a rotary cutter, this will save your cutting surface and the blade.

          2. ljb2115 | | #9

            PLEASE do not use poly organza.  It does not breathe and will not hold up under a hot iron.  It will melt.  Somewhere someone gave the wrong information.  By underlining with silk organza, you will form a buffer zone between the fashion fabric and the lining, this will allow the fashion fabric to hang better, and will give a softer appearance.  It sounds as if you are maybe taking on a pretty advanced project.  Have you considered a jacket without so many tailoring issues????

            Poly organza DOES NOT breathe - silk DOES!  Silk is a natural fabric, will soften with pre-washing (serge or zig zag edges prior to treatment.  I would recommend pre-washing even for tailoring.  This levels the playing field for shrinkage when cleaning the jacket.  You do not want any hidden surprizes when finished.

          3. jjgg | | #10

            I know you meant this response to go to Birdlady.Also, the poly organza will cause static issues.

          4. ljb2115 | | #12

            I am sorry, I replied to the wrong person.  I was on my way out the door, but couldn't let this query go on.  I hope the problem has been resolved.

            The only time I use poly organza is when I machine embroider an open designed corner to apply to a napkin.  I then can cut the organza incredibly close to the stitching and the embroidery will remain stable.  This is a case where poly reigns over silk. 

          5. jjgg | | #13

            Good idea, I'll keep it in mind (except I have no poly organza and lots of silk organza on hand).BTW everyone, silk organza makes a great pressing cloth. you can see through it, it can stand higher heat than most fabrics, it is washable if you need to, so you can dampen it to add a little steam/moisture to what you are pressing.

          6. User avater
            ThreadKoe | | #14

            Silk organza is one of the most useful cloths in existence. From underlining, to interfacing, lining and as a beautiful fashion fabric. It can be used as a fine crisp netting, a stabilizer for embroidery, a bias cut seam finish. Now as a press cloth! Wonder what other uses we could come up with? Cathy

          7. Ceeayche | | #44

            Serendiputous Use of Silk Organza:  Once when I was at a week long conference where the events were held in a convention center that was "crazy cold" with air conditioning, we had a formal banquet at the end of the conference where we were required to wear white gowns.  The dress I'd brought was a sleeveless, full length sheath-- very simple.  I dreaded that event (normally 6 hours long) because of the temperatures in the ballroom and I planned to hit the exhibitors or a local store for something to toss over my shoulders during the event. 

            I scooted out between sessions early in the week to check out the local fabric store, and ended up purchasing  their last 3 yards of white silk organza along with some other pieces.  It was on sale-- and like others who have posted here I typically use it to underline tailored pieces.  So I figured it as a good investment.  Yeah right LIKE I EVER HAVE TO JUSTIFY BUYING FABRIC.

            You got it, the plenary sessions ended up running long all week, and I never got out to the exhibitors or to a mall after the day I went to the fabric store.  Saturday afternoon I dragged in from the last session desperate to change and get back downstairs for the line up of the dais.  On a whim, I grabbed that organza and draped it around me, leaving the tails trailing behind.  I got loads of complements for my dramatic, "couture" gown and beat back the air conditioning!  It even shielded my hair from the light early morning rain when we boarded the shuttle bus back to the hotel.  No one ever noticed the ends were not hemmed and the sides were the selvage.

            I was hooked.  When I came home I put a quick rolled hem around it on my serger, and used it for several events.  It had the added advantage of being very light in the travel suitcase and easy to pack.  When it started to yelllow, I cut it up and underlined a couple of garments with it.  I'm thinking of doing the same thing, this time deliberately with a swath of black organza for which I have already purchased the beaded fringe -- but not the fabric.  I think I will shorten it to 2 or 2.5 yards and wear it over a cocktail dress for a Holiday Party this year.

             

          8. User avater
            ThreadKoe | | #46

            Sometimes, fabric just has your name on it! he he he :)
            Cathy

          9. User avater
            ThreadKoe | | #8

            Birdlady, I agree with Jigg. You have got it backwards. Poly organza does not breathe. Silk organza does as it is a natural fibre. Get the silk. :) Cathy

          10. sewingkmulkey | | #11

            I'm happy to see that so many posters agree with my use of silk organza and not poly organza.  I seriously can not imagine any reputable teacher recommending poly over silk.

      2. User avater
        ThreadKoe | | #5

        I am questioning the use of poly organza as well, Birdlady. Natural fibres are much easier to work with, and more so for tailoring and shaping garments. If you can get silk organza, go for it. Poly organza is more commonly available.
        From how you are expressing yourself here, I am suspecting you are a rather shy person. I think it would be good idea for you to speak up a bit in class and ask your teacher to slow down a bit if she is going too fast for you! Note taking can make you miss a lot of information if you try to write down everything she says as well.
        From personal experience, I found that if I jotted down one or two key phrases that I could fill in later with more information, I could follow along much better. More like word reminders of what went on in class. I could always look up things I had forgotten in books later! Or clarify with classmates or the teacher after class. This may make your classroom experience much more enjoyable. An example of this would be the list of supplies, I would have simply written the list with the type of organza beside it. If I was not sure, I would have questioned it then. I always make sure that I am clear on the info, right then and there. Hope you have fun in your class, it is a great experience. Cathy

  3. birdlady1 | | #15

    I checked with my teacher and she definitely wants us to use the polyester organza for the interlining of our jackets.  I did not get a chance to ask her what pieces of the pattern should have the interlining as we were running late and she needed to teach us a few things.

    I want to make sure what patterns pieces would normally be interlined and what pieces would normally be interfaced.  I am cutting out the interlining right now and do not want to cut out pieces of the pattern that should not be the interlining.  In the pattern instructions, it just gives what pieces should be interfaced.  I just want to be sure.  There are times when pattern instructions can be wrong.  I am using a wool gaberdine for the jacket. 

    Thanks for your help.  I am really anxious to get this started.  I want to keep on top of everything.

    1. ljb2115 | | #16

      Is this teacher an independent teacher or one affiliated with a store.  I still question the poly underlining. The poly interfacing will never soften and possibly will have an adverse effect on the drape of your fashion fabric.  What is your fashion fabric?  What are your teachers' credentials?  Normally you underline all major jacket pieces, ie. fronts, backs, sometimes just the upper back - do you have the Palmer/Pletch jacket fitting book?  There is a wealth of wisdom in that book.

      I wish you well.  Keep us (all who have responded) informed of your progress.

  4. sewslow67 | | #17

    I have been reading with great interest all the replies to your questions here, and agree with most all who have responded; and using silk organza for underlining all the major jacket pieces is critical.  Using polyester would be a disaster (IMHO) for all the reasons already mentioned.  I too, have done couture tailoring for years, and I would never use polyester to underline anything.

    Do check in to the credentials of your instructor as the previous poster suggested, too.  Even then, I would ignore your instructor on this issue, as you are the one who is investing hard-earned dollars in this project, as well as you time.  And you are the one who will be wearing it.

    Just because someone is teaching a class, does not necessarily make them qualified.  Sadly, many instructors (esp. those who are not in credited schools in the first place - and even some of those) simply are not suited to teach and may lack both the skill and the knowledge of their subject.  The women who have thoughtfully responded to your questions are no doubt your best source.  For example, check out jjgg's work:  One look at her garments tells me that I would trust her completely ...with no questions asked!

    1. Deeom | | #18

      Where can one go to check out Jigg's work?

      1. jjgg | | #20

        well, there was the picture of the dress I did for the Fluid Fabric challenge, and you can see a few of my things on my website. The website needs some serious help, but there are pictures of some dresses. The wedding dress with the gold on it is also in Claire Schaeffers new book on fabrics.On the website, I have a picture of a doll dress I made, this was re-creating a dress for a doll that was this little girls mothers, and she was now giving the doll to her daughter. I talked the mom into letting me make matching dresses for the daughter who was 6 yo. The daughter was thrilled.This was when I learned to always use safety pins when doing alterations/fittings on children. They are scared of straight pins.http://www.heartfiregowns.com
        My website for the tents is http://www.lightheartgear.comAnd the tent business is taking off, some rather interesting goings on, I'm looking into having it manufactured, And Sewslow - thank you very much. I don't have all the answers, but I figure it out if I don't and know where to go if I can't figure it out.

        Edited 6/14/2009 4:36 pm ET by jjgg

        1. sewslow67 | | #22

          You are most welcome.  I must say though, that your work amazes me.  I've made a number of gowns, but no wedding gowns, and most were for me, so that made the projects much easier.

          Most of my work these days is casual wear (some art to wear, as well) dresses, or tailored garments.  I don't think I've sewn with anything but natural fibers for at least 20-years, except for fleece sportswear, which is not my favorite fiber by far.  My very favorite cloth to both sew and to wear, is wool; even the very sheer wool (almost like a batiste) is wonderful for a hot summer day because it breathes so beautifully.

          Good luck on your tent business too.  How exciting!

        2. Deeom | | #23

          I found your website and had trouble viewing because the text was printed over with more printing.  However I was able to see the examples on the left side of the page and I am impressed that we "the little people sewers" are getting advice from one of the pro's.  Your work is beautiful!!!!

          1. jjgg | | #24

            This is very curious, What file browser are you using? What words were overlapped? No one ever mentioned anything about that before
            Judy

          2. User avater
            JunkQueen | | #25

            Just for the record, I had no problem with your website. I use Mozilla Firefox.

          3. Deeom | | #29

            North (in red) is on top of Clothing (in grey).  Carolina is on top of LLC??????? I can't read it.  All the way down the page, the first one or two words are clear but the rest of each line is double printed.  I am using Internet Explorer.  Obviously it is my problem, not yours, since nobody else has reported trouble. 

          4. jjgg | | #31

            hmmmmmmmm. I'll have to look into it. I always use mozilla firefox so I don't know of I've ever pulled it up in explored! Thank you for telling me. The whole website wiu be redone soon. I did this one myself. I had a professional do the tent site and he is working on redoing this one

          5. jjgg | | #34

            I checked the site in Windows explorer and it comes up looking right for me, I checked it on my iphone and it looked ok, so I'm not sure what the problem is. Like I said, hopefully it will be completely re-done soon with fabulous new graphics.

          6. starzoe | | #37

            Off the topic but I sent you an email through your profile and it bounced back. You can contact me through my profile if it is convenient.

          7. User avater
            JunkQueen | | #40

            Deeom -- I've been having some vision problems (AGAIN) over the past couple of weeks, and this morning was the worst! Anyway, I increased the font size of several websites I looked at so I could read them, and viola! On one of them, I had the same problem you had with Jigg's site. While this may not help, why don't you go to Jigg's site and hold the "ctrl" key down while rolling the wheel on your mouse backwards or towards your wrist, thus reducing the font sizes and see if that helps. If it does, great, if not, it was a simple fix that just didn't work! Good luck.

          8. Deeom | | #42

            Thanks for the suggestion.  I tried it but it didn't work.  I guess it is time for a tune up on the old computer.

          9. jjgg | | #43

            I saw my site on a friends computer today, she too had some overlapping of the words in the text of home page. Not in the big words at the top. I don't know a whole lot about websites, I did do the whole thing by myself, but I do know there are ways to avoid that sort of stuff (I just don't know how!)
            Oh well, it is what it is
            Judy

          10. cafms | | #30

            Beautiful gowns but I too can't read a lot of the page that comes up as it is overwritten in the middle.  Another page has some problem also.  I am using Internet Explorer.

          11. sewslow67 | | #39

            Hi JJGG:  FYI:  Just wanted to report that I've gone to both of your websites and have no problems with either of them, either.  All words and photos are clear.  I use IE too, and have had no difficulties whatsoever.

          12. MaryinColorado | | #47

            I had no problems with your website, except that I was unable to access the children's garments at all.  Hey, why isn't your incredible liquid silver gown displayed?  It is still the most beautiful garment of any kind that I've ever seen!  Thanks again for sharing your knowledge here, we are so blessed to have access to your expertise!  Mary

      2. sewslow67 | | #21

        I was hunting for jjgg's Website (I have it book marked) but I see that she responded already ...so job done.  Enjoy!

  5. birdlady1 | | #19

    I appreciate your input regarding using silk organza but for this class, I feel I better stick to what my teacher wants. I do not want to get a bad mark.  When I do my own jackets, I will start using the silk organza as you all stated.  You must be right if everyone seems to agree on using it.

    My major problem is what pieces should be lined with the interling and the interfacing.  I know the teacher wants the interfacing on the hems of the pieces.

    Should the following pieces be interlined with the organza:

    1.  Front Jacket                          6.  Upper Sleeve

    2.  Side Panel                             7.  Under Sleeve

    3.  Back                                      8.  Front Facing

    4.  Under Collar                          9.  Front Lining

    5.   Collar Band                          10. Back Lining

    11. Upper Collar                         12. Welt

    13. Upper Welt                           14. Upper and Lower Welt

    15. Pockets

    What should be interfaced:

    1.  Front Jacket, Side Panel, Under Collar, Collar Band, Back, Front Facting, Welt, Upper Welt and Lower Welt?

    I appreciate all of your input. 

    1. ljb2115 | | #26

      My dear .....where is your instructor?????  She/he should have given you an information sheet listing everything you need for the class, then when the class begins - she should continue to give you printed information which will be in sync with the verbal class information.  I wish you well - do not be afraid of this instructor, as I feel you will be mostly on your own for the duration of your classes.  Follow your instincts and if you want to use silk organza, by all means do so, I doubt the instructor will know the difference.

      1. User avater
        ThreadKoe | | #28

        Birdlady, I am wondering the same thing as LBJ. What type of class are you taking, exactly? Even the most basic crafting class I have ever taken has given me full handouts and instructions! Did your instructor give you a book or tell you a book to buy? There is probably a textbook or book you should also be reading and following with the instructions in class... Cathy

      2. birdlady1 | | #32

        There are instructions but they are not all that good.  There are a lot of typing mistakes and I don't think she typed it.  In the instructions, it does not really go into detail what should be lined, interfaced or interlined.  She did discuss it two weeks ago but I did not have my camera with me to tape it.  It is good to have the camera because you always can't write everything down when you are trying to hear and look at what she is showing you.  That is why I started taking the camera last week.  I find with her that even though you may ask her something from last week, she does not really explain it in detail.  She just gives a little bit of information.  I have never bagged a jacket before or even lined it with organza so that is new to me and want to do a good job.  It is really great having you guys help with any information you may need to know.  I know you can ask the classmates but sometimes they are not too sure of what they are doing.

        With respect to interlining the sleeves, even though the pattern does not call for interfacing the sleeve piece, should the organza and interfacing be placed on all the sleeve?  I know for sure she told us to use the interfacing on all of the hem pieces of the pattern pieces.

        1. jjgg | | #33

          Birdlady.This forum is not going to be able to answer your questions and be able to teach you what you need. There are many different ways to tailor a jacket, there is the old fashion way involving a lot of hand work, there are quick and easy ways, and there is your teachers way. I suggest for your class you do what your teacher wants. If you can't figure it out in class it is your responsibility to get the info from your teacher. You had all these same issues with your pattern drafting class. I don't know what your problems are, either you just don't know sewing at all and are in way over your head, in which case you need to get into a much more basic beginners sewing class, or perhaps you have some learning disabilities in which you need extra help, and it's your responsibility to make sure you get the assistance you need. Or perhaps you are just in the wrong type of class setting and rather than a college classroom, you need small private lessons that will go at your pace. I've taken several different jacket classes, each was taught differently. Learning to 'bag a lining' is only one way of sewing. This is what your class is about. Personally, I don't like bagging a lining, I don't do that, I mush prefer to sew a lining in by hand, I can make it look much nicer, but when I had to do it for a class, I did it. I followed the teachers instructions and then never did it again. But if you don't know the basics of sewing, you don't belong in this class. Have you ever sewn a jacket before???? Do you know what it means to "bag a lining"?v have you ever lined anything? do you know what the difference is between an underlining and an interfacing? Do you know where interfacings generally go? (do you know the difference between a facing and an interfacing?) What is your level of sewing?People that generally take a jacket class have a higher skill of sewing and don't need item by item specific instructions. In classes I teach I often ask students to not even use any instructions and try to figure it out on their own. That is a way to learn. Think things through logically and see what you need, if you really get stumped, use the instructions I hate to be so blunt and rude here, but I get very frustrated with your posts as you seem to be asking us all questions only your teacher can answer. and you get so many different answers from this group that may only serve to confuse you more. You need to stand up for yourself in class, and if you can't do that, find a class that suits your learning style better.I've had students in my sewing classes that just didn't get it, generally I asked them to withdraw as they made it much more difficult for the rest of the class to move on, and offered to give them private lessons, yes that was more expensive for them, but mostly they appreciated it because they were not getting anything out of the class .Edited 6/15/2009 10:47 pm ET by jjgg

          Edited 6/15/2009 10:48 pm ET by jjgg

          1. birdlady1 | | #36

            This message is for Jigg.

            First of all, I do not HAVE A DISABILITY.  I work in as a legal assistant.  I don't think that qualifies me for having a disability.  I do not sew as oftened as all of you in "Gatherings" may.  I always thought that this was for people that are not sure of something they are not experienced with.  I guess I was wrong.  I best not go on this website again as it appears that when a person wants to ask questions, whether it be about sewing or drafting patterns, they are proven to have DISABILITIES. As far as JIGG is concerned, when she is having a problem with one of her students. she appears to kick them them out.  To me that is not the quality of a good "teacher". People pay for these courses whether they are taken at a College level or privately.  I passed my drafting class or I would not have been able to go into this course.  May be JIGG should go back to school to get a degree in learning not to degrade some of her students or people who are not as experienced as she is.  Also, if JIGG is getting frustrated with my questions, then her best bet would be for her not to respond. I did not ask JIGG to answer any of my questions personally.  They were for people in the Gatherings who love to share their experiences and like to help others as I would to them.  I did not know that this forum was for criticizing people less experienced.  I guess the next forum that should be created in Gatherings should be  titled: "How to kick people when you are frustrated with them". 

          2. sewelegant | | #38

            Dear Birdlady, I fully sympathize with you on the difficulty of trying to follow all the instructions thrown at you in a class.  I have never been able to "get it all" the first time and hate to pay for a course where I seem to be left at sea, so to speak!  Your idea of taping it with your phone seems like an excellent one and then you can concentrate on what you can see and hear in the class, especially if she is demonstrating how to do something.  If you aren't worried about writing it all down it frees you to watch and listen. 

            Even if you already have several sewing books to refer to, the Vogue Butterick basic sewing book makes a good reference.  Over the years I have purchased many books and have learned something from all of them.  It is also a great feeling to watch and hear someone teaching a technique I already know!  It makes me feel I have accomplished something.  I have also taken some classes where I felt I knew more than the teacher and maybe disagreed with her methods, but the basic class lesson I came for was worth it.  Maybe it's because you learn so much just listening to what others have to input and it's good to see how others do things.  The more you learn the better you can pick and choose what you think makes your garment turn out how you want it to look.  Sewing is an art as well as a science.

          3. jjgg | | #41

            Birdlady,
            I did not mean the part about disabilities with any disrespect. When I was a student in school, there was one young lady in my pattern drafting class (and some of my sewing classes too) that had a rather severe case of dyslexia, I saw the problems she was having and some of your issues seem to resonate with that. I often took her out of class (I was a student here) and took her to a quiet room where I could show her how to do what she needed.I also have a son with a rather severe case of dyslexia, I have dealt with learning disability issues for about 30 yrs now. I have seen how he has to struggle to learn anything. Again this was something that seemed to resonate through your posts, I apologize if I offended, there was none intended.you have been given so many many different answers from this group that all I can see happening is you are getting more confused as different opinions are offered. It is always best to go to the source (your teacher) for help.I never kicked anyone out of my classes, if they wanted to stay they could, but they knew they could not take up all my time as it has to be fairly given to the entire class. Anyone who really wanted to learn was able to, via private or group instructions.

          4. Ceeayche | | #45

            Birdlady,

            Wow you're having a time of it.  I ask you to be encouraged in your classes.  Like others, I shudder to think of using poly organza to interline a jacket.  However, I recommend you take that advice like a kernal of information and tuck it away for your future projects.  You've received good advice here, but we're not leading your class.  For the purposes of your class, I recommend that you follow your teacher's instructions, if only to learn first hand why you were advised differently here. 

            I also second Cathy's recommendation that you invest in a basic sewing reference (I have both of the ones she recommends) as the best answer to your question.  I think that you may find these reference materials amplify what you are learning in  class... and because they are well illustrated they may help you with the concepts you are missing during the class period.  They cover such fundamentals on when to use interacing and why.  Without seeing the jacket and the fabric it's difficult to answer whether you should for instance interface the whole front, collar, lapels and sleeve openings, or if less or more is needed.  I've used lightweight tricot interfacing to lend body to some inexpensive boucle and interfaced the whole jacket before.

            The key to this class and others is to learn the technique and also begin some discernment about what works for you.  You may for instance come away agreeing with us about the poly organza or not.  You may decide the bagged lining is the neatest thing since slided bread, or you may prefer to do it using traditional tailoring methods.

            I also applaud you to reaching out here and to other sources to gain understanding and encourage you to hold your teacher accountable for clear instructions.  It shouldn't matter who typed them, or whether others in the class have more experience. This is an important component, and serves as your reference material after you leave the class.  If she is impatient stopping during class for questions, maybe you can ask her to meet before or after class or communicate with her via email.

            AND, I encourage you to keep sewing.  If the garment is a failure--  examine it for what could have made the difference, and try again to see if it does.

            Finally,in addition to the books that Cathy recommended, I offer the following links to information regarding interfacing a jacket.  As you will see, Judy is correct, there are many alternatives and much of it is dependent on personal taste:

            1.  Starting with Couture: This article was a Threads article about how interfacing and other insight techniques made the Armani jacket far superior to others.  It's got an illustration of all the pieces this couture designer interfaces.  Includes, collar, under collar, band, interfacing, front and side front. (and more). In looking at your pattern I'd add welts too.

            https://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4976/armani-jackets-the-inside-story

            2.  The Mississippi Cooperative Extension Service has a detailed guideline on speed tailoring that illustrates constructing a jacket and includes comments on when to use interfacing.

            http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1405.htm

             

             

            Edited 6/28/2009 1:30 pm ET by CHL

        2. User avater
          ThreadKoe | | #35

          Birdlady, I understand completely how badly you want to learn to sew. I see from your posts that you are having a lot of trouble in the class room. I truly believe that you are trying to take on more than you can handle AT THIS POINT IN TIME. Right now you really need to just go home and sew. Practice and understand fully what you have just learned before progressing to the next step. You need to be able to read instructions and know what has to be done.
          The answers to most of your questions are very basic. My ancient copy of The Vogue Sewing book would be able to answer them easily. The Singer Sewing book can too. There are many, many good sewing references in the library. You need to get a good basic sewing reference book, AND READ IT. Use it first to answer your questions. I am not one who wants to discourage anyone from learning. I love to teach. I love to share what I know. I am willing to help.
          You must be willing to realize that you have to understand the basics first. You have to practice your sewing skills and upgrade them to the point where you understand what has to be done. You have to be able to judge for yourself what has to be done and why. This comes from experience. Experience comes from starting simple, and working your way up to more difficult projects. You need to work through the simple stuff to understand it better before progressing to the harder more complex stuff. You need to do research on what needs to be done on the harder stuff. You do not need a school for that. I will still be here for your questions, when you cannot understand something you have tried everything else to find the answer. Good luck with your sewing, I am positive that you have the drive and skill to do this. Cathy

    2. User avater
      CostumerVal | | #27

      You want to underline all the major pieces, and interface all details and edges. So, interface the collar pieces, interfacings, hems, welts, the part of the front where the slash pocket is placed. Follow the pattern instructions on the interfacings. Some also suggest the upper back and full front. Claire Schaeffer suggests that when using an underlining you can just interface the front shoulder area as well as edges and details w/ fusible knit on top of the underlining instead of using both on full front. The underlining would be front, back, sides, sleeves.Be careful ironing. Your wool garbadine will develop a "shine" under the iron with heavy steam and heat used for shaping. Your pattern calls for fusible nylon knit interfacing which will take even less heat than your polyester organza. Use a press cloth on ALL pieces and follow the heat settings recommended by the interfacing manufacturer for those areas.Order the book Jackets for Real People by Palmer Pletsch publications, they describe bagging a lining in brutally intimate detail.

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