I had a fight with my latest project!! I found a gorgeous peice of lightweight wool with a little lycra in it . Lovely hand and nice drape. I feel like I beat it into submission to become a 3 button blazer and pair of natural waist slacks with a shaped waistband. The end result was good but not as nice as I hoped. here was my approach:
Pretreated all fabric and interfacing, I used a light knit-fuse for all the jacket body sections and a slightly firmer one for the facings and collar. I started with my usual test swatches and thought I was good to fuse with the wool setting light steam and a press cloth. The more I did, the more I think this fabric liked NO steam as there were puckers that seemed to appear only after lifting the pieces off the ironing board to work with them. also ironing as opposed to pressing seemed to be the best finish. This defied all the wool tailoring techniques I’ve ever used previously and I feel like it was a battle all the way through. Maybe I shouldn’t have interfaced the whole thing? but even the pants behaved the same way when pressing seams. Ironing definitely looked better.
Mostly I’m just venting but if anyone has any tips, I’d love to hear them.