Replies

1. 
   Teaf5 | Jan 26, 2006 02:13am | #1

   I'm 5'8" with a 36D and a short waist, and wrapped tops don't work very well for me, although the surplice style, where the line of one half of a deep v neckline continues below the bust (essentially a wrap sewn shut), is very flattering.

   I think that the combination of a short waist and a sizeable bust causes all kinds of "engineering" problems for a wrapped style; although a wrap dress looks great when I'm standing still, my curves make the parts slip open whenever I move at all! My flatter friends find them very comfortable and don't seem to struggle with keeping them on so much...

1. 
   Shirah | Jan 26, 2006 05:29am | #2

   Thank you very much for your prompt response.

2. 
   paddyscar | Jan 28, 2006 03:04am | #3

   Have you considered a "coat style" dress with the buttons all the way up the centre instead?

   I made a wrap style when I was a 36B, and had trouble controlling what flashed to the world whenever I wasn't standing straight up.  :))

1. 
   Shirah | Jan 28, 2006 07:08am | #4

   No, I had not considered a coat style dress but that's a thought. I guess I had my heart set on a wrap style dress but if I'm not flat as an ironing board, it's probably not for me. Thanks for your idea.

3. 
   woodruff | Jan 29, 2006 02:24am | #5

   This could be a very good look for you, but you are probably going to have to nerve up for a lot of alterations. No pattern company that I know of is going to have a pattern piece designed to fit a 36DD or a little 4' 8" frame. However, take heart. Everyone except the "fit model" will need to have the pattern altered, anyhow.

   Here are a couple of patterns that I believe would work for you, with alterations:

   Vogue 7931, and Vogue 7963 (which has been reviewed at http://www.patternreview.com)

   You will need to take your measurements carefully in order to know where to alter, and then you can go to work. First you will trace the pattern, which will leave the original for you to go back to, if needed.

   Since your bust is large in proportion to your body, your pattern size will be based on your high bust measurement, right under your armhole, but above the full bust. This measures the bony structure of your chest, rather than the soft stuff.

   Some alterations you can count on:

   Patterns are designed for a B cup, so you can plan on making a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). Several methods for doing this are online at http://www.patternreview.com and I think Threads magazine has a piece about this at their website, too.

   Since patterns are designed for women 5' 6" tall, you will need to subtract length from the bodice, the skirt, and the sleeve.

   With any wrap top, for the full bust, after making your FBA, you will need not only to use stay-tape to stabilize the diagonal edge across your chest, but you will also want to use the tape to draw up that edge and make it about 1/2" shorter (maybe more) than the original line. This will make the wrapped edge hug your body between the breasts, rather than gape open.

   You may also want to add more fabric to the underlap, so that if the skirt should blow open, you'll have a bit more coverage.

   Most of what I have mentioned here is covered in Sandra Betzina's book, "Power Sewing."

1. 
   Shirah | Jan 29, 2006 06:57pm | #6

   Thanks for the very sound advice. I always have to alter my patterns--this will take a bit more doing. I'll check out Sandra Betzina, too.

1. 
   SewNancy | Jan 31, 2006 12:57am | #7

   YOu might also look at the Palmer Pletsch book, fit for any body. I am a 34 D and have gotten very quick at fba. It will make the armskye (sic?) look wierd, but it is what you need to get the extra fabric where you need it, and not at the armskye. I always use the upper bust measurement to choose my pattern size. It is not as hard as it looks. I also think you might look at a mock wrap dress.
   Nancy

1. 
   Shirah | Jan 31, 2006 04:06am | #9

   Thanks. I'll check out Palmer Pletsch and a mock wrap dress pattern.

4. 
   stitchmd | Jan 31, 2006 02:17am | #8

   Petite Plus patterns are designed for short, busty women with high hip fluff and tummies. I'm small busted, so their tops don't work for me, but their pants pattern fit me better than what I drafted to my measurements using pattern making software. Better than any pants pattern I've used in years since I ceased being young and trim.

   http://www.petitepluspatterns.com/ NAYY

   They have a wrap blouse that looks as if it would be fairly easy to extend in length as a dress. You can email the owner, Kathleen, who I've heard is very good about corresponding with customers and giving help.

1. 
   Shirah | Jan 31, 2006 04:11am | #10

   Thanks for your response; however, I don't think Petite Plus is for me. I am small boned and a high bust measurement would put me into a size 6 Petite. Petite Plus patterns start at size 14--way too large for my frame.

1. 
   SewNancy | Jan 31, 2006 06:21pm | #11

   My daughter is a 5' 3" size 2 with a 32 D cup. I have made her fitted spaghetti strapped dresses for formals and have been successful using the high bust measurement and fba. Also, Palmeer Pletsch talk about and explain proportions. You can be short in proportion, or have long or short legs, etc. It is important to know how you fall so that you can alter in the right places. Burda Pattern mag is starting to have a set of petite patterns in every issue. Check them out. But, any pattern can be petieable as long as it isn't too oversized. I would definitely avoid drop shoulders and the more seams the easier it is to fit.
   Nancy

1. 
   Shirah | Jan 31, 2006 10:43pm | #12

   Thanks for your reply. I didn't realize Burda Magazine was now including petite patterns.