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“Wrinkle be-gone” solution needed

fearyenot | Posted in Fitting on

Hi:

I posted earlier (this month or last month) my right back pant leg was hanging improperly.  It appears a large wrinkle begins at the side seam about crotchline position, dips downward and inward towards my right knee.

I noticed if I pulled the CB seam up about an inch, the wrinkle disappeared.  Now, I’ve discovered no matter how much I shorten the CB seam by lowering the waistband, (I’ve altered it close to three inches), the wrinkle is still evident and disappears when I put up the CB seam!  I currently pinned the waistband about an inch lower than my original CB seam.

Now I notice if I pinch the RB crease/grainline about an inch above where the wrinkle begins at the side seam, pulling the creaseline up about an inch, the wrinkle disappears.  I’m wondering what to do! 

Is this something other than a CB adjustment?  Do I need to do something with the RB crotch curve hook?  The length of the RB inseam?  The width of the RF or RB crotchline or thigh area?

I’m stumped!

Thanks in advance for all responses.

Anne

Replies

  1. mjorymer | | #1

    The shape of the crotch curve may be incorrect.  As we get older, our fannies get flatter and if the curve is too steep, wrinkles will form below the crotch.  One way to get an accurate crotch curve is to use a flexible quilting rule--it will bend to any shape and hold its shape.  Have a good friend mold it to your shape and then draw the curve on paper.  Use this as a template to adjust the crotch curve on your pattern.  Remember you don't want much ease in the crotch curve--for an average weight person, 1/2" is enough.  More than an inch is uncomfortable. 

    Marijo

    1. fearyenot | | #2

      Hi, Marijo:

      Thanks for your post.  I have one of the flexible rulers and also used aluminum foil to make the shape of the crotch curve I need.  I may not have understood how to transfer the shape to my pattern although I've wondered if the crotch curve on the pants isn't exact.

      With that said, do you have any insight as to why this large wrinkle is showing up on the RB pant leg and not the LB pant leg?

      Thanks again!

      Anne

      1. mjorymer | | #3

        The only thing I can think of is that the fabric is off grain on one leg.  Is this happening on just this pair of pants or more than one.

         

        Marijo

      2. mygaley | | #4

        I your high hip higher on one side than the other?  Just a guess.  Galey

        1. fearyenot | | #5

          Hi:

          I've pinned and repinned and discovered (I think) what I need to do with these pants.

          First of all, I do have a high hip and the wrinkle is on the side my high hip is.  I did alter the pattern for that.  Even when I pull up or down on the right side seam the wrinkle didn't disappear. My thought is the high hip alteration I did is accurate. Thanks for that post, Galey.

          Second, I did mark the grainlines on my pretest pants.  I should be okay there. Actually, these are the first pants I have that fit (I have poor fitting ready made pants in my closet), so I don't have another I've made to compare.  Thanks for your post on the grainline, Marijo.

          Now I see if I pin out excess fabric horizontally across the back with the greatest amount pinched at the crease/grainline (at the area between the hip and crotchline), decreasing to the side seams and CB, the pants hang wonderfully.  Also, I pinned out excess fabric on the RB from the CB just below the horizontal pinning to the inseam and even less at the same area on the LB.  I'm thinking I have the "wrinkle be-gone" solution I'm looking for!

          Also, I'm thinking I need to use these pants as a learning experience, mark my pattern with the new alterations, and buy more fabric.  Right?

          Please comment.

          Thanks,

          Annie

           

           

          Edited 6/16/2006 1:28 pm ET by fearyenot

          1. SewNancy | | #6

            Right! Usually when the wrinkle is only on one side it is not the center back at but a high hip as you have discovered. A woman on Pattern review had picture of her pants with the same wrinkle you describe, it was pretty obvious because that hem was also higher. Where the wrinkle points is where to look for the problem, of course, sometimes it is hard to tell whether it is pointing to or from!

      3. mem | | #7

        You know I wonder if you waist is a little lower on the right than on the left and that is why your pulling the fabric up at cb and br is working.  Do you have a scoliosis??If it was the crotch it would be a problem on the left as well . Have you tried using an elastic around your waist and then just pulling up until it all goes and then marking that line and relocating the stitching line for the waist band ??

        1. fearyenot | | #8

          Hi, again:

          Gosh, "mem", I do have scoliosis, so you're right on there!

          I've taken apart my pants as I pinned them on myself and am now determining how to transfer the changes to my pattern.  UGH...

          Prior to that, I've pinned, re-pinned, stitched and restitched the entire waistband and the pants hang best when I remove fabric horizontally at the fullest part of my hind end.  (I believe that fabric removal indicates a flat tush.)

          I must say each of us is fearfully and wonderfully made and working on fitting pants to myself proves that!

          Thanks,

          Anne

          1. mem | | #9

            I work as a physiotherapist which is a great help when I read these body descriptions as you right when you say we are all different. Normal is a very arbitrary concept in my view.

             I actually find that making up a muslin and the drawing all over it in felt tip pen is great I just keep that as my pattern .You can even slash and add in etc . Its also good to use light stitch in interfacing which is cheap and lasts well. Make the alterations on your body and pin and then take it off and just run over your seam lines with a felt tip pen Use a french curve and ruler to true it all up stitch it up again with a big basting stich check that its all good by ttrying it on again THEN cut off the seam allowances and you have the exact size you are.When you use it for your final garment, pin it onthe wrong sides of you fabric as you would a normal pattern and draw in your seam allowances and mark around your pattern pieces with a chalk wheel or tack in the stiching line . It all just flowes together beautifully from then on.

          2. SewNancy | | #10

            My 20 year old daughter is fond of saying that all those skinny models are the freaks of nature and the rest of us are normal. I am so happy to have raised a young woman with a great body image. That said, nothing looks better than great fitting clothes. I do the same thing to muslins that you do. It is the only way to get great clothes. Pants, or anything that fits well also tends to be comfortable to wear. Also, I never just sew something even after I have done a muslin. Try it on, not once but many times during construction to fine tune the fit. Every fabric fits differently and needs different amounts of ease to be comfortable. A smidgen here or there makes it fabulous.
            Nancy

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