Replies

1. 
   sewelegant | Dec 15, 2008 07:48pm | #1

   On reading your profile I think you would not be able to identify with my "biggest fitting challenge" which concerns the aging body and gravity, so I've reached back in time and think about my endless journey to sew a great fitting pair of  pants!  Just when I would think I got it right, the next pair eluded me because of either the difference in fabric or a gain in weight.  I think there has been a significant improvement in pant fitting instruction since the 70's and 80's and I just made a pair of slinky pants that I love following a pattern I made drafting my own measurements according to Coni Crawford's "Pattern Making Made Easy".  (her first edition) It just seemed to get that back slope right!  I have a daughter who drafted her own pattern following Harriet Pepin's instructions... you can go to her (my daughter's) blog and read about it if you want.  http://sewingforlife.wordpress.com/2008/03/12/katherine-hepburn-inspired-trouser-pants-part-1-of-3-drafting-the-pattern/

   I've never had a sewing friend to help me with fitting so it all had to be self taught and I really appreciate all the information that is out there today.  I am now trying to perfect a bodice draft so I can take care of that gravity thing, but am not very happy yet!

2. 
   damascusannie | Dec 16, 2008 12:09am | #2

   The fact that my body has actual curves. Most patterns don't have enough definition between the waist and hips.

3. 
   709501 | Dec 16, 2008 12:25am | #3

   Making skirts for myself is difficult because I have so many fitting issues that begin at the waist.  One hip is slightly higher than the other, my waist rises considerable in the back (making my back waist lenth rather short), plus I am swayback.  If only I had just one of these problems I know how to make the adjustment,  but when you put them all together it becomes really difficult to fit just right.

4. 
   Kaybabe | Dec 16, 2008 12:43am | #4

   In 2005, I underwent bilateral mastectomy surgery and immediate reconstruction using my own tissue.  The donor tissue was taken from my lower abdomen (Yeah!).  However, I have subsequently developed a hernia-like bulge on my lower right abdomen, resulting from weakness in the underlying tissue.  The only "fix" for it is more surgery, which may or may not be successful.  So far, I haven't gotten that desperate.

   My challenge is to find styles that camouflage the bulge, and even to make clothes for myself that accommodate that additional space needed on the right side.  I have a problem with center seams "creeping" because of my uneven shape.

1. 
   gailete | Dec 16, 2008 11:23am | #5

   Well congratulations on a successful surgery and may you continue on the path to wellness. I assume the doctor knows about this bulge? I'd hate to think of you sneezing or something and having something pop out. I know it may sound dreadful, but do they still make support style panty girdles that might hold it in and give your abdomen some extra support?

   I don't have your problem but I wear elastic waist skirts all the time and I do have some fullness in the front. I found that when making one skirt that instead of having a front seam I laid it on the fold and the front of the skirter was flatter/smoother. When I made the same skirt in the same fabric only cut the front seam as the pattern called for, it was fuller in the front. Just thinking that it might help to think through where you need fullness and how manipulating the grainline might help and least the comfort level even if it doesn't cover it up. It also seems that ifyou do a 4 piece skirt with an elastic waist that the front piece on the side that bulges, you could add and extra inch or so of fabric to give more coverage where you need it without changing the look of the skirt too much. Just some weird ideas at 3 in the morning.

   Gail

1. 
   Kaybabe | Dec 16, 2008 05:48pm | #6

   Thanks for your response!  Yes, several doctors know about it, and it's just a weakness in the underlying tissue -- not a hole like a true hernia.  And yes, I have a strong support panty girdle that helps, but doesn't bring me back to normal.  I've tried an abdominal binder recommended by one of my doctors, but it doesn't work as well as the panty girdle. 

   Thanks for the suggestions on the skirts.  I'll have to experiment with your suggestions in mind.  I do find that the four-seam style tends to have more fullness in front, and I'd like to avoid that look if I can.  I ALWAYS wear elastic waists, and those help, too.  I'm not sure the kind of help I'm looking for is realistic, but I'll keep working at it.

   Thanks!

1. 
   Ceeayche | Dec 16, 2008 07:45pm | #7

   Blessings on your recovery!

2. 
   KharminJ | Dec 16, 2008 08:24pm | #8

   Here's another off-the-page thought - try using 3 pieces, or 5, with the center-front piece sized/shaped so the seam comes right over the bulge. Then, you can shape the seams as needed on each side, to fit smoothly over your bump (without gathers)?It works in my head - hope you can "see" what I mean ... Happy experimenting!Kharmin

5. 
   Ocrafty1 | Dec 17, 2008 04:38am | #9

   I can't decide between 2.  I haven't got a sewing buddy, so trying to fit ANYTHING to myself is next to impossible. I am 5'2", 34DD bust, size 4 slacks. Very short waisted.

   My biggest challenge in sewing for others was a bride that wanted a new bodice sewn to the size 20 gown she had purchased 10 yrs ago, before she aquired a 69" bust.  After I finally convinced her that she HAD to wear a bra, the fittings went much better. I shortend the gown from the waist, thus having enough fabric to go around her waist...I think it was 58".  I used the lace motifs from the 'old' bodice and sleeves to decorate her new bodice. She was married in July and it was her 'dream' gown. 

   This bride phoned last week and her sister is getting married in the Spring.  She wants me to make her Matron of Honor gown...Oh, Joy!!!

   Deb

1. 
   gailete | Dec 17, 2008 04:57am | #10

   There has got to be a good story about why a bride had her gown 10 years before the wedding and taking a size 20 up to those measurements must have been sheer magic on your part! Perhaps this time she will let you start from scratch on this next gown?

   I can see where you definitely would have some fitting problems! You are still kind of junior sized except in certain places, or are you more girls plus? I was amazed one day looking at the difference between regular girls sizes and girls plus on the measurements. And of course, even if you run toward those sizes, I doubt you would want to wear those styles. Perhaps you could ask the magazine to feature you in their next hard to fit series. Anyone around that you could train to help? My hubby has been a good helper for me only he always is trying to get me to wear my clothes tighter and I'm to 'fluffy' to want that!

   Gail

1. 
   Ocrafty1 | Jan 06, 2009 06:56am | #27

   I giggled hysterically when I read your post...that I'm STILL a girl's size...I lost more than 60 lbs. just over 3 yrs. ago.  I went from no bra needed to a 34C at age 12.  I wore Jr. sizes in HS...and I graduated back in the '70's.  I gained the weight with my 3rd child...the only son...and couldn't get it off for over 20 yrs.

   I can buy tops and pants separately that fit somwhat...but a bathing suit is next to impossible!  If it fits on the top, it won't on the bottom...and I'm so short waisted that the crotch on a  1-piece suit is nearly to my knees.  I've tried taking up suits where they need to be, but they end up bulky in uncomfortable places, or they just don't look right.  DH would be absolutely NO help, although you'd think a union carpenter would understand the basic principles...LOL...I think its the soft vs. hard thing that he can't grasp...Oh,oh.. THAT didn't come out right.....Giggle....You know what I mean.

   ANYWAY...That bride sent me a professional(??) photo of her in her wedding gown.  I'll try to scan it on my computer and post it in the near future.

   Edited 1/5/2009 11:43 pm ET by Ocrafty1

2. 
   Ceeayche | Dec 19, 2008 05:15am | #15

   I'm with you it's "the girls".  They are ample and my shoulders, chest and ribcage are relatively small compared to the rest of me.  My mother used to call me the "booby wonder".

6. 
   scrubble4 | Dec 17, 2008 05:29pm | #11

   Vicky:  I have two fitting challenges that persist through weigth gains and losses and through aging.  The combination of them creates challenges for me.  They are:

   • sleeve fitting/bodice alteration. 
   • I stand very erect which requires a change to the shape of the armhole and the sleeve. (I also have large upper arm)
   • In addition to the armhole change, the front of the bodice needs to be lengthened in the centre decreased to neutral at the sides.
   • The back of the bodice needs to be shortened in the centre decreased to neurtral at the sides.
   • I am long between my small waist and the top of my large thighs (side saddles), and I have a pronounced rear that is slung low
   • The combination of large, low slung buttock and large thighs makes the combination of alterations a bit tricky 

   I am not overweight I just don't have the balanced proportions of the mythical body.

   My solution has been to use a software program and then tweak that pattern to a base pattern.  I would still love to try some of the stylish patterns but I fear deviating too far from the tried and true.  I do make sytle changes on my base line pattern and enjoy the results.  I have discovered that a slightly lower waistband that rides just above my hips diminishes the appearance of the large difference between the circumference of my thighs and waist.  A simple set of steps on how to alter a commercial pattern (I know to do top alterations first and then move down the pattern) for this combination of fitting problems would be appreciated.  I have also made myself a "My Twin" fitting model which has really helped. 

   Thanks for asking.  Scrubble4

7. 
   Teaf5 | Dec 17, 2008 08:53pm | #12

   Two great challenges, both resulting from a tall but small-boned, short-waisted frame "decorated" by a 36D bust and soft belly:  bodices that bag and sleeves that don't hang correctly from my shoulders.

   Once I do a fba for my bust, any bodice is way too baggy for my ribcage, which is ten inches smaller, and the shoulder area overwhelms my thin, narrow shoulders.  Those closely-fitted 1950s dresses would fit me perfectly, but those are not at all my style!

   A wonderfully fitting bra helps, as does using two or three parts for the front bodice, but I find myself more satisfied by good quality rtw sweaters and knit tops than the cotton shirts I would love to make.

8. 
   JeanM | Dec 17, 2008 09:23pm | #13

   What I would like to see more of is how the body skelton or skelton pitches affect fit.  This is rarely addressed.  Very little is written on how to determine if this is even a consideration of the individual.  Following that should be how to alter the patterns accordingly.  Measuring gives length and width, but not the "full story".

   Three things affect fit:  body fat or protrusions (for lack of a better word), muscle bulges, and skelton.  The last one is glossed over.

9. 
   ROSESKES | Dec 18, 2008 08:40am | #14

   Disguising heavy upper arms while wearing sleeveless clothes.  It's too hot where I live to where short sleeves every single day in the summer.  I found a simple solution that works with nearly all blouses & dresses: I find a lightweight fabric, either an exact match (e.g., scraps leftover, if I made the garment); or something that simply looks good with the garment.  I make a rectangle for each sleeve, about 4-5" wide and about 3-5" longer than the circumference of the sleeve.  I finish both long sides of the rectangle.  Then I sew the short ends together to make a circle; and I sew it with a lapped seam (seam allowance 3/8" is usually OK) into the sleeve hole.  It makes a lightweight, fluttery sort of pseudo-sleeve.   Looks classy and fashionable; and hides sagging upper arms! 

1. 
   gailete | Dec 20, 2008 06:48pm | #16

   I have nice "Angel" wing upper arms and find that I like flutter sleeves in summer the best. They don't grab at your arm and they are cool. The top I have made them in twice has them almost down to my elbow. The pattern was one where the flurrets were two pieces so actually all the flab in my arm would show because of the slit coming straight off my shoulder, but I cut them out as one piece and it worked fine, especially as that particular pattern had the cutting layout for the sleeves wrong.

   I'm overweight, tall, shoulders hunching (too much reading all my life), large bones, not very flexible anymore-so back fasteners don't work for me, fluffy tummy, but a decent back side (something has to look good!). After years of wearing scrub uniforms to work, to wear regular clothes on a daily basis, I still want them to feel like scrubs (loose and sloppy), but hubby keeps encouraging me to tighten up my clothes and they will look better. As usual he is right. I'm trying to find and wear a decent selection of patterns that I know will fit well and look well and then start to embellish them in ways that makes it look like I'm not wearing the same thing everyday. One summer top I have in 3-4 different fabrics, and I have construction time down to about 45 minutes. Now to make it look a bit more interesting.

   Gail

10. 
    fiberfan | Dec 21, 2008 07:54am | #17

    I have a hard time getting anything but princess lines to fit well above the waist.  I have narrow shoulders, large low bust, short back waist length, high square hip bones, short crotch depth and no rear.  My bust is close to my waist and I haven't found a way to have some of the bust shaping in a waist dart that looks nice.  I like things to have some shape at the waist so it doesn't look like my waist is as big as my bust.

    Joanne

1. 
   starzoe | Dec 21, 2008 08:50pm | #18

   Have you thought of moving the waist dart to the shoulder and ending it about an inch to an inch and a half from your bust point. I found that this is truly flattering, it adds interest close to the face and away from the low bust.

1. 
   fiberfan | Dec 27, 2008 01:02am | #19

   I haven't tried a shoulder dart, I thought the long line would lead the eye to the bustline.  I will put that on my list of things to try, thanks.

   Joanne

11. 
    dodey | Dec 27, 2008 08:43am | #20

    My greatest fitting challenge is "fitting for sitting", because I travel in a wheelchair. I just discovered recently that it is necessary to make pant legs longer for the seated figure. If the cuffs are where they need to be for standing figures, they are above the ankle when seated. I almost serged off a 3" hem, then decided to try on the pants before I did it, and am I glad I did! Turns out I only needed 1/2 inch when seated.( I am able to stand, but not walk.)

1. 
   gailete | Dec 27, 2008 05:42pm | #21

   Dodey, I just read a tip in either a back issue of Sew News or Threads on fitting pants for someone in a wheelchair. Have you seen the article? Would you like me to try and find it again in case it has some more ideas pertinent to you? I occassionally use a w/c but I also usually wear skirts and I want to be sure I have enough fabric in the back to cover the seat so I don't sit on that plastic set. since I only need it occassionally it is just a cheap yard sale find for $15 but boy does it come in handy.

    

   Gail

    

1. 
   dodey | Dec 28, 2008 07:16am | #22

   Thanks! I havn't made any skirts yet, but I know from seeing a photo of myself at a wedding, that the skirt I was wearing was much shorter in the picture than I thought it was. Of course, that was because I had looked at it from a standing position first.

   Before I do sew skirts, I will measure myself sitting. From my back waist , all the way underneath and down the back of my legs  to where I would like the skirt to be when I sit. Any help you can give will be much appreciated.

   Dodey

2. 
   dodey | Dec 28, 2008 07:17am | #23

   I forgot to ask....where does sew news come from?             dodey

1. 
   gailete | Dec 28, 2008 07:17pm | #25

   Sew News is a US magazine. They have their own website. I will try to find that article for you then. It has been around for about 25 years. Lots of good sewing nuggets in it, but not quite as many as Threads.

   gail

12. 
    ThreadKoe | Dec 28, 2008 05:01pm | #24

    My greatest fitting challenge is in multiple changes.  Where do you start first?  Is there an order to fitting changes, do you do them one at a time, or all at once, then fit.  It seems when doing many changes to many parts, one change compounds problems in another area.  Is there a system or order to doing changes?  I have a full bust, broad square shoulders, and a narrow ribcage with a full tummy, but I have to take off the "saddlebags" at the sides of patterns as I do not fill the curves at the hips, yet I have a nice waist, despite the tummy.   Cathy

1. 
   artfulenterprises | Jan 05, 2009 12:03am | #26

   Hi ThreadKoe,In answer to your question, "is there an order for fitting changes?"Since garments basically hang from the shoulders, I believe the critical areas are the Bust Location & Cup Size, Neckline Fit, Shoulder Line Location and Width. The rest is pretty easy: you need enough width to go around you and enough length (or lack thereof) to hit you at the waistline and keep a good proportion. Here's a brief summary of a class I teach called "Sew Clothes That Really Fit": (This assumes that you have made a careful measurement of your body so that you have something to compare your pattern against.)Start your pattern alterations by determining the amount of ease the original patternmaker built into the garment...you will want to retain the design ease to get the look you want. Adjust the back waist length (from nape to waist) and the back width from CB to armscye seam line (at a point approximately 6-7" from the top of back neck).Adjust the front waist length. (From throat hollow to waist.)Determine the proper fit of the neckline from CF to Shoulder line at neck. Adjust the location of the Bust Point.Alter the cup size if necessary.Measure from CF to Side Seam across Bust Point to be sure you have enough width to accomodate your needs.Check the Shoulder width and add or subtract at the shoulder tip, blending the armscye to the new shoulder width. (Later you may need to adjust the depth of the armscye by raising or lowering the "scoop" of the armhole to accomodate your personal fit. But that can be marked in the muslin.)Once you've marked these adjustments on your paper pattern, try a "pin fit" (pin the pattern together and try it on) to determine that it looks pretty close to what you need.Then, mark a muslin with your "new" pattern lines, leave nice 1" seam allowances and go for a first muslin fitting.Hope this helps!

1. 
   ThreadKoe | Jan 06, 2009 10:05pm | #28

   Darling you are a lifesaver!  That is the first time I have seen this type of thing anywhere.  I am now printing it out for my reference binder!  It makes complete sense to me.  Even with all my experience, I have had trouble with this.  One change can effect another, so having an order makes it a lot simpler to figure out where you went wrong, or where to make the next logical change.  For some reason, probably information overload, I could never figure it out.  KISS method, keep it simple, silly!  Thank you so very very much!  Cathy

   PS  Perhaps you should contact the editors, and propose writing a fuller article on this my friend!  This type of info is helpful for all levels of sewing ability.  C

   Edited 1/6/2009 2:07 pm ET by ThreadKoe

1. 
   artfulenterprises | Jan 07, 2009 04:51am | #30

   You are very welcome! So happy my notes turned on a few light bulbs in the sewing room....I'll take your advice and see if the editors are interested in an article. Best to you,
   Susan

2. 
   scrubble4 | Jan 07, 2009 02:21am | #29

   Artfulenterprises:  Thank you.  Lots of this I knew but some of it was new to me.  So kind of you to take the time to share for free your expertise.  Scrubble4

1. 
   artfulenterprises | Jan 07, 2009 04:53am | #31

   So glad you found the info helpful Scrubble4.Best,
   Susan

1. 
   Ceeayche | Jan 08, 2009 05:19am | #32

   OH yeah THAT'S what I'm talking about!  Thank you! 

   And I echo the calls for a Threads article on this.  Let the editors know that we're a clamouring for a robust article on making adjustments for women built like women, blessed with curves and a desire for stylish-- well fitting clothes.

    

2. 
   artfulenterprises | Jan 09, 2009 03:00am | #33

   I'll do my best to interest the editors...keep your fingers crossed!

3. 
   gailete | Jan 09, 2009 04:45am | #34

   I wrote them last year to complain about their 3 part series on draping the plus size body and the fact they were using a regular sized manniquin and that nothing in the article was unique to the plus sized body! Their letter back was they seemed to feel it is all the same thing so to speak, but we know it isn't. Teaching draping, fitting, etc. on a perfect sized body doesn't let us visualize what we need to see, what to do with protuding bellies, sagging boobs, rounded shoulders, etc. How do you drape when the abdomen is jutting out more than the sagging boobs? I want to see that. So I'm with you girls for a REAL article/s on real sized women.

    

   Gail

    

4. 
   joyfulneedles | Jan 09, 2009 06:40am | #35

   In the last few years I have had to deal with a protrudung abdomen with umbical hernia.  I just figured out the problem I am having with slacks is the stride is completely out of wack now.  This is a fitting problem I've never had to deal with.  I have resorted to wearing skirt.    I completely agree that the changes after 50 are not generally in the fitting books.  I will try to keep finding the humor where I can.  I have really enjoyed the humor I find here.  I'm not sure I am ready to see me three dimensional. 

5. 
   gailete | Jan 09, 2009 05:49pm | #36

   I've found wearing skirts to be preferable to wearing pants. I haven't sewn a pair of pants in a long long time, but lots of skirts and tops. I have one summer top pattern with cut on short sleeves that I can whip out in no time, but after a small weight lose I need to do some altering/fitting to the pattern to make it look not so sloppy on me. Those umblical hernias can be a doozy, I had a patient with one once that definetely would have caused him problems getting pants to fit and I doubt HE would off wanted to switch to a kilt.

   Gail

6. 
   ThreadKoe | Jan 09, 2009 07:07pm | #37

   I have to agree with you on this point. If you place a napkin over a football standing on point, and one over a basketball, there is a huge difference in how the napkin's going to look. Why can't people understand that it is the same with a woman's body???? We need the visualizations the same way. Cathy

7. 
   sewelegant | Jan 09, 2009 08:25pm | #38

   I echo all the input on wanting to see "real" plus size draping.  There have been some articles, but the plus sizes have not been the extremes.  I have seen women walking around with impossible to fit hips and can't imagine how they are able to find clothes.  It makes me feel fortunate to be an endomorph (stocky figure type) with no exaggerations to deal with, I find it hard enough to fit me.  We all know it is not "pretty" to see the faults, but we do need a dose of reality to get the proper information.  Maybe that's why books like Barbara Deckerts "Sewing For Plus Sizes" and Gale Grigg Hazen's "Fantastic Fit For Every Body" are so helpful.  The trend to cover up the body with lots of fabric doesn't work for when it gets hot!!  We need to be able to sew something that will make our flaws as unnoticeable as possible and in my view, something that skims the body, but doesn't look like a tent is the answer and I need to know how to get that skim look.

   I have always read that the princess line is the best for altering to fit, but I have never been able to understand all of its concepts and have never made anything with a princess line that I thought looked good.  I don't think I ever got the adjustments right so I would enjoy more realistic tutorial for the extreme changes with that design.

8. 
   gailete | Jan 09, 2009 10:13pm | #39

   I've only made a princess seam once and it was for my niece's wedding gown which was my most major garment project ever. The thought of trying to redo those curvey seams to accomodate saggy breasts is something this dyslexic person doesn't even want to think about. I have been blessed though with a hubby that is very interested in my sewing and has encouraged me to take in my seam lines a bit and insists that I look better without the loose baggy style nonsense. He even pins the alterations for me while I'm trying a garment on. Makes me feel a bit like a 'pin up' girl. Hard notion for my head to handle as at one point in my life I was as flat as a board.

   I haven't had much trouble with pants as most of my trouble is from my waist up, but I too have seen women with skinny little waists and huge hips and have never figured out where they could buy or find a pattern to fit them. My MIL's hips  are like that  and she has used the same pants pattern for years. She has to make all her pants as her altered pattern fits her and nothing in the store does. I think she would love a bit more variety.

   I think the problem with books and magazines articles is that it is hard to narrow into the different fitting techniques for all our strange yet lovely bodies. But I do wish that when showing alterations, they would at least do it on line drawings that have figures with more than an inch to alter.

   Gail

9. 
   starzoe | Jan 09, 2009 11:05pm | #41

   I have no idea why princess style garments are advocated for larger women. I have never found that to be the case. I wouldn't wear that style, for sure, as it emphasizes what doesn't need emphasis. My niece who is a tall, big girl looks twice her size in the princess-style dress she wanted me to make. It fits perfectly but overall it is not doing anything to de-emphasize her large bust and body girth.An exception might be a colour-pieced outfit where the side front and side-back portions are different from the centre front and centre back. I once saw a woman in a jogging suit with this and immediately sketched it because although she was a larger woman, it really looked good on her.

10. 
    sewelegant | Jan 10, 2009 12:47am | #42

    See... we need to be inventive and creative!  And we need some good articles to give us inspiration with pictures that show how it works on "real" problem figures.

11. 
    ThreadKoe | Jan 12, 2009 04:15am | #48

    A princess style garment comes in several lines, and where those lines fall on a body will make a big difference on how the style looks. The bust curves can originate over the shoulder, from the armscye, from under the arm at the bust, or from even the neck line. The line can then divide the body by following the body down either in straight lines or curved lines to the hem or side. Where these lines fall on the body can make a huge difference in how flattering or unflattering a garment can be. The beauty of a princess line is how easy it is to adjust where they fall. It also gives more places to adjust the fit. It is often a matter of finding the Right Lines in a princess style to suit the particular body shape. It is a matter of the correct proportions, and sometimes, like you suggested, a difference in colour or texture to make all the difference.
    Personally as a very full figured person, I love them because I dislike wearing tents. I can wear a semi-fitted style that flows over my unsightly bumpy areas, yet still shows that I have womanly curves. Cathy

12. 
    Ceeayche | Jan 09, 2009 10:35pm | #40

    Now that my favorite magazines are beginning to provide photos of their editorial staffs, do I understand why they don't "get it".  By and large they are all tiny, across the board.  It's sort of self perpetuating, many of them (not all) look the about same size so they have trouble believing that their readers might want to look at woman with different proportions.  So do their guest writers.  I guess with Threads, I expect more: 

    I expect when they are showing their readers how to drape/fit a woman with DDD cups to use a woman with DDD cups AND for the resulting garment to look fabulous.  Use a lingerie model if you need to. They can still have tiny other parts....

    I expect when they are showing their readers how to drape/fit for a protruding tummy, that they use a woman with a protruding tummy.  AND I expect the resulting garment to look fabulous on her.

    But I do have to give Threads credit for one thing they do get:  their writers have cracked the 30 something age barrier.  There seams to be a nice balance of new and "seasoned" subject matter experts.  I think that's what keeps the magazine fresh without compromising it's credibility.  The layouts are modern... but their writers have EXPERIENCE gained from years of sewing.  That's great and it keeps me subscribing.

13. 
    artfulenterprises | Jan 11, 2009 02:13am | #43

    Hi Ladies,A very interesting thread you have going here...one I've complained about for many years. But I'd like to add a word or two about the slender young editors' seeming indifference to the issues of draping.
    In fact, I think perhaps both sides are correct...the principles of draping remain pretty much the same no matter what size you are; on the other hand, there are special fit problems attendant to plus size figures (especially petite plus sizes which I am myself) that slender women can't relate to because they don't live it.Large breasts on a small frame, or very large upper arms attached to a small frame, a bountiful booty or a flat bottom following a protruding tummy; all can be a seemingly insurmountable problem.There was a recent thread elsewhere that expressed extreme horror at the lady's sight of her duct tape dress form in all its rolls of glory which made me laugh in sympathy and tsk tsk at the same time. While duct tape has a jillion uses, I don't think dress forms should be one of them (no offense to all who may love their own!).I'm attaching a photo of one of my wonderful students with her dress form. She is definitely a real woman. This type of body double cover is far more versatile and far less abrasive to the eye. As you can see, it is not necessary to replicate EVERY tuck and roll to get a flattering fit...fashion is about creating an illusion...it's ok to skim over things we don't necessarily want to see and emphasize the things we'd like others to admire! While draping can help you solve problems in a very immediate way, it still takes a discerning eye and understanding of proportion and balance to select and adapt current fashion designs that work for your particular body type. Mostly, designers don't get it...(did anyone watch Project Runway when the contestants were asked to dress somebody's plus size mom??? OMGIf the editors hear your cry in the wilderness we could get some great articles in the future.I'm also attaching a photo I just received in an ad from the Puyallup Sewing Expo showing all the gorgeous women in attendance...nobody appears to be a size 6 (except maybe for the one lone gentleman in the front row!). Just goes to show you who's playing in our yard!

    
14. 
    artfulenterprises | Jan 11, 2009 02:15am | #44

    Here's the image of the ladies at the sewing expo.

    
15. 
    Sancin | Jan 11, 2009 06:31am | #45

    Great pictures. The body model and individual could be my twin. What kind of model is it and where did she get it? If they can be hand made, how would find out how to do it? I have an old mesh adjustable body form which is a little too small for me. I got it second hand and haven't set it up yet but think I can make some adjustments and then would like to cover it.

16. 
    artfulenterprises | Jan 11, 2009 09:17am | #46

    Hi SancinThe dress form cover was made by the "body model" in the photo. It is a classic French couture style cover made with cotton batting and tee shot poplin. She took my class, "Build a Personal Fit Body Double", which I teach in Sonoma County, CA (about 80 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge.) Later, she also took draping classes from me using her dress form. I am planning, eventually, to put a Body Double DVD series together so that more people can learn this technique. Susan

17. 
    Sancin | Jan 11, 2009 10:28am | #47

    Thanks. I look forward to the DVD. I am very far away from Sonama - in Northern British Columbia in Canada. I can't see travelling that far to take your course, but many years ago I did visit your lovely country.I am surprised when I read your message as we are in the same time zone and it is just not 11:30 pm!

    Edited 1/11/2009 2:29 am ET by Sancin

18. 
    sewingkmulkey | Jan 12, 2009 07:29pm | #49

    Oh my gosh, that "real" woman could be my twin too!  I'm convinced there are lots of us "real" woman out there wanting to look our best in well-fitting fashionable clothes. 

    But, I must say, that I've have very good success sewing princess lines for my body.  In fact I get the best fit using this style.  Now I won't say that it was easy but once I got a good fit, I use that pattern to compare with all others.  It has taken off hours of fitting frustration!  I also developed an excellent pants pattern that I use as a comparison for every new pattern.  The proper-fitting pants pattern was conceived by copying a favorite RTW pant.

    So my advice is to keep trying for that perfectly fitted pattern and, once achieved, to always use it as a comparison.

    Karen