There are a number of advantages to fitting with princess seams. Because of their length, and where they fall on the body, these construction seams are ideal places to adapt a garment’s fit. The bust can be refitted to match your exact bust-cup size, the waistline contoured to your shape, and the hip area changed to accommodate fuller or slimmer hips.

Yes, princess seams are wonderful. They just aren’t on every pattern. Here, I’ll share my techniques for creating two types of custom princess-seamed master patterns. Each begins with a well-fitting sloper that has shoulder and contour (also known as fish-eye) darts. One master pattern has a princess seam that begins at the shoulder seam. The other master pattern features a princess seam that starts at the armscye.

By creating and using a custom princess-seam pattern, you guarantee a great fit; then, you can be creative and design your own style. Change the length, add different collars, lapels, plackets, pockets, or add details such as piping, and/or change sleeve styles. With these princess-seam patterns, you’ll be on the way to sewing many flattering garments. Connie Crawford explains how to get the perfect fit in this article from Threads #170.