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Unisex Duffel Coat | 360-Degree View

Threads Issue #211, Oct./Nov. 2020

Inspired by the straight-cut duffel coats of the 1950s, the Albion Coat from Colette Patterns has classic elements such as toggle closures, front and back yokes, and two pocket styles. A structured three-piece hood completes the look. The coat comes in two lengths: midthigh and hip. Both have a front yoke, double-layer back yoke, two-piece sleeves, buttoned sleeve tabs, and deep side-seam pockets. Optional details include a detachable button-on hood tab and patch pockets with flaps. Make the coat with a lining or without. For the unlined version, a combination of flat-felled seams and bias bindings provide a clean finish. There are several design elements that add to this jacket’s sturdiness. For example, on the lined version the back yoke is underlined, and the patch pockets’ top edges are finished with a separate facing instead of a simple turned-under edge.

Notable features

• The instructions state to make the buttonhole on the sleeve tabs after attaching them. It may be easier to complete this before attachment.
• The side-seam pockets extend all the way to the front facing and hemline and are caught within those seams. In the unlined view, this creates an inner pocket on each side.
• The instructions do not say how large the toggle closures should be. Those shown, which measure 5 1/2 inches when closed, may be too wide for smaller sizes. Test for closure width by making a muslin.

The sewing instructions are well illustrated and include lots of details. Each sewing step is precisely identified with a header that stands out. Boxes of helpful text appear throughout and contain online links for further in-depth explanations. At the end of the instructions, you will also find a glossary of sewing terms. The design is ideal for wool coating, quilted outerwear fabrics, and weather-resistant fabrics.
—Tested by Nancy Muro, Wallingford, Connecticut

Fabric and notions

This coat was made from wool twill from Mood Fabrics and lined with a cotton flannel for extra warmth. The toggle closures and buttons came from Bias Bespoke Supply Co., though the toggles were slightly too wide for the design and the bottom set were sewn over the pocket edges. When buying toggles, check the finished width to ensure they will fit the design.

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