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A Moveable Waist

Rework side pockets for adjustability

Ah, the loosened waistband—is there any relief more welcome than undoing your waistband when it feels too tight? The trouble is, you typically only get to do this when you’re safely out of sight. Is there a way to prolong this joy without staying in hiding—or slipping on a hip-length sweater? 

One solution to this fitting predicament is a discreetly expandable waistband and pocket, courtesy of a redesigned side pocket. Not only is it appropriate for any occasion, but it also lets you invisibly relax your waistline whenever and wherever you wish.

The basic structure of this pocket is simple. The pocket is created from a one-piece pocket bag with a slit that pivots as you adjust the waistband. The waistband is made from two pieces that overlap above the pocket.

The process of creating an expandable pocket and waistband lends itself to various waistband types. You can adapt this technique to suit your style and just about any occasion. This method allows you to create garments that are not only comfortable to wear but also look great.

Understand the mechanics 

Before you begin, select a pattern with a slant-front pocket, and study the diagrams at left and right. This type of pocket opening creates details that expand at the waistband through the process described below.  We’ll detail the process in the following pages.

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Fit and Sew Pants

Fit and Sew Pants

Making your own pants is a great way to get a perfect fit, every time. 

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Pockets and Closures
Waistbands, Linings, and Hems
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