Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Tiktok Icon YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon

Threads Project Guides

Fit and Sew Pants

Guide Home
Chapter
Insider

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

Understanding the Waistband

Fitting band to waist means more than just making ends meet
Threads #15, Feb/Mar 1988

Considering how basic they are, waistbands can cause sewers lots of trouble. And considering how much the wearability and appearance of skirts, slacks, and shorts depending on well-fitted waistbands, it’s a good idea to take a close look at them. It makes sense to refer to the waistline as a line; you can usually establish its position with a piece of string. But where a band will rest in relation to this line depends on both the width of the band and the shape of the figure above and below the line. High-hipped figures, for example, will hold bands high against the waistline, and wide bands will almost always need to be longer than narrow ones to accommodate the figure’s larger measurements on each side of the waistline, as you can see in the drawings below and on the facing page.

My students and I tested these ideas in class. For example, when we measured the waistline on my dress form with a tape measure,  it measured  27%  in.  A length of 1 1/4-in.-wide stiff waistband interfacing pulled snugly over this same waistline mea­sured   28 1/4  in.,   and  2-in.-wide  interfacing measured 28% in. The greater the differ­ence between the waist and hips, the longer that wider bands will need to be. Straight figures will notice less or no difference as bands get wider.

At the same time, we noted where the bottom edge of these waistbands fell in re­lation to the waistline string-in other words, where the waist seam allowance of the gar­ment should be. On the dress form, the edge of the 1 1/4 in. the band was % in. below the string; the 2-in.-band fell % in. below the string.

Getting it right-Pattern companies rou­tinely add 1 in. to the given waistline mea­surement for waistband ease, but that…

Start your 14-day FREE trial to access this story.

Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content.

Start Your Free Trial
Previous: No-Nonsense Flexible Waist Finishes Next: The Inside Scoop on Hollywood Waists
Discuss

Discuss

  1. User avater
    somiio | | #1

    What is Armoflexx or Ban-Rol? We don't have those brand in France and I can't find any description or photo to know by what I could replace it.

    1. User avater
      emkay96 | | #2

      It's similar to buckram, which you might find in a milliner's shop. It's very stiff.
      I'm surprised you can't find any descriptions or photos. You can find it on Amazon.

      You can see how it's inserted in this YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckEVQPM9aPg

Log in or become a member to post a comment.

Fit and Sew Pants

Fit and Sew Pants

Making your own pants is a great way to get a perfect fit, every time. 

View Project Guide

View All Project Guides »

Become a member and get unlimited site access, including the Fit and Sew Pants Project Guide.

Start Free Trial

Fitting Secrets
Pockets and Closures
Waistbands, Linings, and Hems
Pants Pattern Reviews