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Add a Bust Dart to a Sewing Pattern

Adjust the front bodice pattern so your garment fits, whatever your bust size

In this video from the Industry Insider Techniques series, Threads Contributing Editor Louise Cutting shows how to alter a dart-free pattern for a blouse to include a side bust dart. This adaptation is important for a smooth, flattering fit on any figure with a bust cup size of B or larger. It eliminates gaping or strain lines at the center front and keeps the front hemline from rising and flaring out.

Adding a bust dart

Louise demonstrates how to take the necessary body measurements and transfer them to the original dart-free pattern. By cutting and spreading the pattern horizontally and vertically, she adds the width and length needed to accommodate the bust fullness. A key marking in this process is the bust point, or apex.

Related links

“How to Sew a Dart”

How to Remove a Bust Dart”

“Bust Dart Pressing: Cup Size is a Factor in Which Technique You Choose”

“How to Drape Bust Darts”


Louise Cutting is a contributing editor for Threads magazine and has been featured in instructional DVDs, including the popular eight-volume Industry Insider Techniques produced by Threads parent company, the Taunton Press. Louise’s Cutting Line Designs independent pattern company may best be known for offering the One Seam Pants she created. An internationally known speaker on sewing and design, she has appeared on several television shows including Sew Much More for HGTV and DIY, and America Sews and Sewing with Martha Pullen for PBS. Her numerous articles and pattern designs have been published in Threads, Sew News, Sew Today, SewStylish, Handwoven, and the former Sew Beautiful magazines. Louise ran the Fashion Design Department at The Art Institute and Prospect Hall College in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, and taught interior design at Marymount College in New York. She also owned Fabric Collections, a designer fabric store in Winter Park, Florida, for 15 years. She was accepted into the American Sewing Guild’s Sewing Hall of Fame in 2014.

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Previous: Adjusting the Bodice Front Next: Fitting a Full Bust | Video
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  1. kaychan | | #1

    I am a G cup, so wondering if we continue up in increments until we get to the correct size, or are we limited to increase?

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