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Adjusting the Upper Chest
Learn how to adjust the upper chest section of a pattern to improve comfort and fit. This video walks through the process of making the change on a bodice pattern after taking a necessary measurement. This technique is most helpful for someone with a narrow upper chest.
Note: It’s best to try this pattern alteration after after fitting the shoulders and back.
Where to adjust
The upper chest is the area between the bust and armholes, and the problem is especially noticeable when wearing a sleeveless garment.
Start by measuring this area—the narrowest part of the chest from armhole to armhole.
Work with the pattern
Then mark on the pattern piece a 5/8-inch seamline along the armscye seam.
Next, extend a ruler from the center front to the narrowest part of the armscye. Divide the upper chest measurement in half. Measure that amount from the center front and mark the pattern.
Use a French curve or fashion ruler to create a new curved line along the armscye that passes through the mark.
Be sure to make the same changes to the armhole facing pattern.
Solves fitting issues
This pattern alteration will likely improve comfort and clear up a garment’s pulls or wrinkles at and above the bust area. Plus, it will likely eliminate bust-fitting problem in your garments.
What if the upper chest needs to be made larger, rather than smaller?