Creating a Back Neckline Dart for Better FitHow to add a neckline dart in back
In a moulage (custom bodice sloper) class I taught at Ryliss Bod’s Sewing and Design School in Tacoma, Washington, I had a student who had a broad back and a high curve at the nape of the neck.
Student Ann Long said she was adding a center-back seam to her patterns to accommodate the curve. Since this curve is pronounced, when she sewed garments using that alteration, she got what I call the “shark fin,” a ridge on the seam caused by the curve that is too sharp to fit into one seam. I’d like thank Ann for so kindly allowing me to take photos of her and for using her as a lesson for us. By the way, I’m teaching a few more classes in the Seattle/Tacoma area for Ryliss, as is Susan Khalje. If you’re interested in knowing more about them, you can email Ryliss at: [email protected]
In drafting her moulage, Ann had an angle form at the intersection of the shoulder line and armhole that is much greater than it should be. I like an angle somewhere around 90 degrees, or slightly more. The vertical line in the draft that intersects the armhole represents the cross back width. Ann has a broad, strong back, which showed up in this measurement. So, the cross back vertical line is farther from the center line than her shoulder width.