Threads Logo Threads Logo Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon

Threads Project Guides

Fit & Sew Tops

Guide Home
Chapter
Insider

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

Put a Dart on a Slant | Video

Threads Contributing Editor Louise Cutting shows how to improve a blouse, shirt, or other top by putting a dart on a slant. For a fuller bust (a C cup or above), a dart that slants upward toward the bust apex is more flattering than one that extends perpendicular from the side seam.

Determine the bust point

Louise demonstrates how to find the bust point, or apex, on the body, and then how to transfer this level to the pattern. This step is essential for a final dart that fits the body properly.

Rotate the dart on a slant

Once the bust apex level is marked on the pattern, you draw the new dart seamline, 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches below original dart at side seam. Rotate the old dart closed, and a new dart opens, which extends all the way to the pattern’s bust point. This is not where you want the finshed dart point, however. Louise explains how to determine the correct new dart point placement, and to draw new dart legs. Finally, she shows how to fold and true the side seam at the base of the new dart.


Louise is a contributing editor for Threads magazine and has been featured in instructional DVDs, including the popular eight-volume Industry Insider Techniques produced by Threads parent company, the Taunton Press. Louise’s Cutting Line Designs independent pattern company may best be known for offering the One Seam Pant she created; more than 74,000 copies have sold. An internationally known speaker on sewing and design, she has appeared on several television shows including; Sew Much More for HGTV and DIY; and America Sews and Sewing with Martha Pullen for PBS. Her numerous articles and pattern designs have been published in Threads, Sew News, Sew Today, SewStylish, Handwoven, and the former Sew Beautiful magazines. Louise ran the Fashion Design Department at The Art Institute and Prospect Hall College in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, and…

Sign up for the Threads eletter

Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox.

Sign Up
×
Previous: Professor King on Pivoting Darts Next: Bust Dart Pressing: Cup Size is a Factor in Which Technique You Choose
Discuss

Discuss

  1. simplypat | | #1

    Can I use this technique to increase the slope of the dart?

  2. User avater
    krischick | | #2

    Is this a C Cup in Sewing Cup sizes or in RTW Bra Sizes?

  3. CarolFresia | | #3

    Krischick, Louise says this is for C-cup and above bra sizes.

    Carol Fresia
    Threads Senior Technical Editor

Log in or become a member to post a comment.

Fit & Sew Tops

Fit & Sew Tops

Sew beautiful tops with tips from the experts

View Project Guide

View All Project Guides »

Become a member and get unlimited site access, including the Fit & Sew Tops Project Guide.

Start Free Trial

Basic Torso Adjustments
Bust Fitting
Sleeves and Shoulders
Construction Secrets: Collars, Yokes, Cuffs, Vents, Plackets
Make It Your Own