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A Handy Chart of Fusible and Sew-in Interfacings

In the “Basics” column of Threads #123 (Feb./March 2006), I explain why fusible interfacing—fabric with beads of adhesive on one side that can be melted with an iron—helps strengthen fashion fabric. I also demonstrate how to cut, position, and apply it. Learn more about interfacings in this product chart.

Interfacing by type and thickness

The application process is straightforward, but the interfacing choices at some fabric stores can be overwhelming because there are so many types and thicknesses. This handy chart, excerpted from Denise L. Bean’s article, “Interfacing: The Inside Essential,” Threads #103 (Oct./Nov. 2002), breaks the choices down into three main types—woven, nonwoven, and knit— and then in terms of thicknesses. Consult this guide the next time you approach a wide selection of interfacing in-store or online., and you’ll quickly be able to select an appropriate product.

Interfacing brands and their products

Four major brands of interfacing are available to consumers: Stacy, Pellon, and HTC, Inc. are available at most fabric stores, and Kuffner is available from tailoring suppliers and some independent fabric stores. If you purchase a nonbrand interfacing and can’t locate the manufacturer, the retailer should stand behind the product. (Manufacturers may discontinue or rename products, so some listings in the chart may no longer be available.)


Key

• featherweight to lightweight
•• lightweight to medium-weight
••• medium-weight to heavyweight
* miscellaneous or nonbrand interfacings
** specifically for hand or machine knits, hand wovens, and loose weaves

 


Fusible Woven Interfacings

• Bi-Stretch Lite—low-temp stretch woven (Pellon)
• Touch O’ Gold—low-temp plain woven (HTC)
•• Flex Weave—stretch woven (HTC)
•• Hair Canvas/Hymo*
•• Kuffner Woven—plain woven (Kuffner)
•• Satin Weave—plain woven (HTC)
•• Shape-Flex—plain woven (Stacy)
•• Wigan*
••• Armo Rite—plain woven (HTC)
••• Form-Flex All Purpose—plain woven (HTC)
••• Form-Flex—plain woven 50/50 (HTC)
••• Fusible Acro—hair canvas (HTC)

Fusible Nonwoven Interfacings

• #906F Fusible—crosswise stretch (Pellon)
• Designer’s Sheer—crosswise stretch (Pellon)
• Sheer D’Light Featherweight—crosswise stretch (HTC)
• Sheer D’Light Lightweight—crosswise stretch (HTC)
• Sof-Shape—crosswise stretch (Pellon)
•• #911FF Fusible—stable (Pellon)
•• Designer’s Lite—crosswise stretch (Pellon)
•• Easy Shaper—stable (Pellon)
•• Form-Flex Nonwoven—stable (HTC)
•• Fusi-Form Lightweight—crosswise stretch (HTC)
•• Sheer D’Light Mediumweight—crosswise stretch (HTC)
•• ShirTailor—stable; for collars, cuffs, or waistbands (Pellon)
•• Shirt-Shaper—stable (HTC)
•• Softouch—low-temp; crosswise stretch (HTC)
•• Tailor’s Elite—stitch-reinforced (Pellon)
••• #931TD Fusible—crosswise stretch (Pellon)
••• Armo Fusi-Form—crosswise stretch (HTC)
••• Pel-Aire—stable (Pellon)
••• Tailor’s Touch—stable (Pellon)

Fusible Knit Interfacings

• EasyKnit—tricot (Stacy)
• Feather Weft—weft-insertion (HTC)
• So-Sheer—tricot (HTC)
•• Delicate Warp*—warp-insertion
•• Delicate Weft*—weft-insertion
•• Fusi-Knit—tricot** (HTC)
•• Kuffner Weft—weft-insertion (Kuffner)
•• Sofbrush—low-temp; warp-insertion (HTC)
•• Sofknit—low-temp; tri-dimensional (HTC)
•• Textured Weft**—weft-insertion (HTC)
•• Ultra Weft—weft-insertion (Pellon)
•• Whisper Weft—weft-insertion (HTC)
••• Armo Weft—weft-insertion (HTC)

Sew-in woven interfacings

•• Armo Press Firm—plain woven (HTC)
•• Armo Press Soft—plain woven (HTC)
•• Collar Canvas*
•• Form-Flex Woven—plain woven (HTC)
•• Hair Canvas/Hymo*
•• Hair Cloth*
•• Sta-Form Durable Press—plain woven (HTC)
•• Veri-Shape Durable Press—plain woven (HTC)
••• Acro—hair canvas (HTC)
••• Buckram*
••• Crinoline*
••• Netting*
••• Tailor’s Pride—hair canvas (HTC)
••• Wigan*

Sew-in nonwoven interfacings

• #905 Sew-in—crosswise stretch (Pellon)
• Intra-Face Bias Featherweight—all bias (HTC)
• Intra-Face Lightweight—crosswise stretch (HTC)
• Sew-Shape Featherweight—stable (HTC)
•• #910 Sew-in—all-bias (Pellon)
•• Intra-Face Bias Lightweight—all-bias (HTC)
•• Intra-Face Mediumweight—stable (HTC)
••• #930 Sew-in—all-bias (Pellon)
••• HTC Intra-Face Durable Press—crosswise stretch (HTC)
••• HTC Intra-Face Heavyweight—stable (HTC)

Sew-in knit interfacings

• Sewin’ Sheer—tricot (HTC)

 


Ann Steeves teaches sewing classes in the Boston area, and sews unique accessories (www.gorgeousfabrics.com).

This article is an Online Extra to Threads #123.

For more essential information about interfacing, see Contributing Editor Louise Cutting’s video explainer here.

Previous: Go with the Grain – Sewing Woven Fabrics Next: Interfacing Secrets
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  1. User avater
    emkay96 | | #1

    It would be nice if this could be exported to a pdf for easier printing.

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