Threads Logo Threads Logo Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon

Threads Project Guides

Learn to Sew

Guide Home
Chapter
Insider

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

Focus on the Waist to Fit Pants

Use a simple method to improve the fit of any pants pattern
Threads #207, Feb./March 2020
Article Image

No matter how close your measurements are to those listed on a pattern’s size chart, you are likely to need some fit adjustments for comfort and appearance. With pants, a key area to fit is the section from the waistline to the hips. Everyone has a different slope from narrow to wide, a different distribution of padding, and a different waistline angle.

Pants patterns are typically shaped with darts: These bring in the garment’s circumference at the waist, and create space and shaping for the abdomen, hips, and buttocks. A pattern may include one or two darts on each side in back, and one or no darts on each side in front. This configuration may be all right or may be all wrong, depending on your shape. The darts may take in too much or not enough circumference at the waist, or they may not be positioned where your body needs the shaping.

Solve waist- and hip-fitting issues on a faced waistline by customizing the darts. Pattern: Simplicity 8137. Fabric: cotton/spandex sateen, MoodFabrics.com.

Fortunately, customizing the fit at the waist is a straightforward process for most pants styles. Begin by pinning darts that follow your figure. These darts can be transferred directly to a pattern with a faced or traditional straight waistband. If your pattern has a contoured waistband, you can use the same process, then convert the darted waistline area into a contoured waistband.

Fitting darts is easier to do with a sewing buddy, and you may need to test a few options before settling on the ideal dart intake and placement. Be prepared to make a muslin and to sew and revise the darts a couple of times to find the fit and look you prefer. It is worth the investment of time, as you…

Start your 14-day FREE trial to access this story.

Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content.

Start Your Free Trial

Sign up for the Threads eletter

Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox.

Sign Up
×
Previous: Add a Bust Dart Next: Tips for Fitting a Straight Skirt on 3 Body Types
Discuss

Log in or become a member to post a comment.

Learn to Sew

Learn to Sew

Discover the tools and techniques for successful results.

View Project Guide

View All Project Guides »

Become a member and get unlimited site access, including the Learn to Sew Project Guide.

Start Free Trial

Getting Started
Construction Basics
Garment Details
Fitting Fundamentals
Easy Projects