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How to Sew an Invisible Zipper

This method conceals the zipper in a seam

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Learn one method for adding a zipper to a garment. This type of installation, the go-to method for Threads seamstress Norma Bucko, conceals the zipper in a seam. It requires the use of a double-grooved invisible zipper foot on your sewing machine. Alternatively, you can use a regular zipper foot to sew an invisible zipper.

Garment sewing expert Judith Neukam demonstrates how to press the chosen coiled zipper, align it, and use the zipper foot to sew it to the garment. She advises that you test the invisible zipper, once installed, to be sure it opens and closes smoothly.

Judith also shows how to finish the faced garment edge where the zipper ends.

This detailed tutorial is one episode from Season 2 of the comprehensive Teach Yourself to Sew series.


Teach Yourself to Sew

Judith, the series host, got her first taste of sewing when she took the free lessons that came with her mother’s sewing machine purchase. Judith was 9 at the time. Soon after, she was sewing her own clothes and feeding her passion for the craft. In her Teach Yourself to Sew series, Judith shares her enduring love of sewing and her invaluable years of sewing experience.

Getting started

She starts with discussing the equipment and the essential sewing notions for anyone who sews. You’ll learn about shopping for fabrics, choosing patterns (including selecting the correct size), and planning the perfect pattern layout. From machine-sewing simple seams to inserting zippers and stitching buttonholes, Judith demonstrates the key steps to making a custom garment.

Discover methods for clean-finishing seam allowances and applying facings so all edges are neat. To add shape to garments, Judith explains how and why to sew darts, and how to gather fabric for volume. Other garment elements, such as sleeves, pockets, and elasticized waistbands, are shown in easy-to-follow video tutorials.

Advancing your skills

When you’re ready to challenge yourself further, tune in to Judith’s overview of couture garments and sewing techniques. Even if you never intend to become the next Coco Chanel, you’ll learn methods that add quality to your everyday wardrobe. Find out how to perfectly match stripes, plaids, and prints; baste seams; and insert underlinings and linings.

Finally, Judith shares the basics of pattern fitting and adjustment. Her method begins at the shoulders, ensuring the garment hangs properly. Follow along as Judith shows how to create a shoulder template that you can use again and again to adjust patterns before cutting the fabric. As a bonus, you’ll even learn how to create a custom dress form so you can fit garments on a body that truly represents your true body shape.

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