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Louise Cutting, a Threads contributing editor, shares her professional knowledge about interfacing products. Much of her information comes from snoop-shopping in high-end ready-to-wear garments. Discover clever techniques for using fusible interfacing in a range of garment areas.
Interfacing plus underlining
Often, a jacket front is fully interfaced with a fusible product. This creates a crisp effect. Instead, learn from designer Giorgio Armani, and apply the interfacing to a cotton batiste underlining. The results are soft and sweaterlike.
Cuff and collar treatment
Standard garment pattern instructions say to interface a cuff’s facing, or the undercollar. Louise advocates fusing interfacing to the cuff or collar itself, on the “public side” of the element. You’ll have a smoother finish, and the seam allowances won’t show through.
Most patterns instruct you to interface the fold-down facing at a patch pocket’s upper edge. Instead, apply a strip of interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket, with its upper edge aligned on the pocket’s fold.
If you’re interfacing the upper and undercollar, be sure to use a lighter weight interfacing.
Hems on knits
Serge a strip of fusible interfacing, cut on the crossgrain, to the hem edge of a knit velvet. Make sure the nonfusible side is against the fabric’s wrong side. Fold the hem up and steam to fuse. The interfacing secures the hem in place. Apply a loose, hand-worked catchstitch to permanently secure the hem.
When you’re interfacing a fabric that has some stretch, cut a knit interfacing with the pattern’s grainline on the interfacing’s crossgrain. This maintains stretch in the interfacing piece, so it can move with the fabric.
How to apply fusible interfacing
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