Sew Side-Seam and Quarter-Cut PocketsTake a close look at the pattern pieces to understand how to attach pockets to pants and skirts
Garment sewing expert Judith Neukam introduces side-seam and quarter-cut pockets in this video. Both pockets are built into the garment’s construction. Judith explains this by reviewing the pattern pieces that typically come with pants patterns featuring side-seam pockets as well as those with quarter-cut pockets.
Quarter-cut pockets—also known as trouser pockets, slant pockets, or diagonal front pockets—often have oddly shaped pattern pieces with varying names, Judith cautions.
She discusses how to create your own side-seam pocket pattern. Then she explains the typical way to sew the pocket by attaching it to the pant legs. She goes a step further and shows an alternative method for sewing a side-seam pocket that she says creates a subtle finish.
This detailed tutorial is one episode in Season 3 of the comprehensive Teach Yourself to Sew series.
Teach Yourself to Sew
Judith, the series host, got her first taste of sewing when she took the free lessons that came with her mother’s sewing machine purchase. Judith was 9 at the time. Soon after, she was sewing her own clothes and feeding her passion for the craft. In her Teach Yourself to Sew series, Judith shares her enduring love of sewing and her invaluable years of sewing experience.
She starts with discussing the equipment and the essential sewing notions for anyone who sews. You’ll learn about shopping for fabrics, choosing patterns (including selecting the correct size), and planning the perfect pattern layout. From machine-sewing simple seams to inserting zippers and stitching buttonholes, Judith demonstrates the key steps to making a custom garment.
Discover methods for clean-finishing seam allowances and applying facings so all edges are neat. To add shape to garments, Judith explains how and why to sew darts, and how to gather fabric for volume. Other garment elements, such as sleeves, pockets, and elasticized waistbands, are shown in easy-to-follow video tutorials.
Advancing your skills
When you’re ready to challenge yourself further, tune in to Judith’s overview of couture garments and sewing techniques. Even if you never intend to become the next Coco Chanel, you’ll learn methods that add quality to your everyday wardrobe. Find out how to perfectly match stripes, plaids, and prints; baste seams; and insert underlinings and linings.
Finally, Judith shares the basics of pattern fitting and adjustment. Her method begins at the shoulders, ensuring the garment hangs properly. Follow along as Judith shows how to create a shoulder template that you can use again and again to adjust patterns before cutting the fabric. As a bonus, you’ll even learn how to create a custom dress form so you can fit garments on a body that truly represents your true body shape.