Umbrella Skirt and Jacket

My 8-gored skirt and matching short-sleeve jacket are constructed from a white antique linen tablecloth that I found in Buenos Aires.  The linen is a granité weave, which has a slightly rough hand, while the linen drapes softly.  I designed the skirt and jacket to highlight the drawn-lace detailing, wide hems and monograms that distinguish this tablecloth.  My design worked around some irreparable holes and stains in the otherwise pristine table linen.

All garment edges, except the waistband, are original hemmed edges of the tablecloth.  So, the skirt hem is octagonal, with straight edges joined at raised seams.

The seam detailing is accomplished by sewing gray, red and white flat, bias-cut, cotton piping into the seams and then pressing and topstitching so the piping creates a ¼-inch “spine,” that is similar to a closed umbrella.  The seam allowance is absorbed within the spine, making the interior of the jacket and skirt flat.  The spines of the skirt line up vertically with the spines of the jacket seams for a slimming, elongating line.

Additional detailing includes embroidered piping along the sides of the jacket’s placket for the button closing.  The buttons are dual-layered, an antique shell button topped with a red taga-nut bar that echoes the red bars along the piping edges.  An original monogram adorns the jacket pocket, and drawn-lace details accent the skirt pockets. 

This flowing. linen outfit is, in every sense, a joy to wear!

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