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Fancy Fabric Challenge

Emaual Ungaro Teal Velvet jacket

This French silk cut velvet jacket is an OOP Emanual Ungaro Vogue pattern which took many years to bring to completion. Cutting it out was a difficult task as there was  barely enough yardage. Once cut, I underlined the entire jacket with a matching silk georgette, painstakingly basting the two layers together before serging the edges together with a two thread overlock to prevent ravelling.  Interfacing was a huge challenge as I couldn’t use a fusible, my favorite light weight hair canvas was too heavy, so I choose to use a baby weight flannel.  The front edges are piped with a matching silk dupioni, the hem is faced with the same dupioni, the lining , a matching china silk. Sewing was nightmarish as depiste basting each and every seam at least once, the velvet continued to move. My advice to others loving velvet, plan to invest LOTS of time and patience to achieve a great looking garment.


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  1. Nefertiri | | #1

    This is lovely -- very nice drape on the "peplum" at the bottom. Nice curves are hard to achieve on napped fabric, when princess seams are to awkward to help out. impressive.

  2. Clarasita | | #2

    Very impressive! Makes me want to touch the fabric and watch the wearer do a dramatic turn to see the peplum and sleeve ends swirl. This design looks like it would flatter every figure type (when proportioned accordingly). I really admire your creativity as well as your layout talents to maximize the amount of fabric. Construction details sound and look superb.

  3. Aunty | | #3

    I've found using a stabilizer over the seam plus a walking foot works to keep the two different fabrics together, no more pulling, distortion etc. Just a lot of work pinning the stabilizer very frequently all along the seam line. I experimented with the stabilizer between the seams, on the velvet side, or the other fabric - doesn't matter, any works as long as you use a stabilizer.

  4. User avater
    PKD | | #4

    Your jacket is breathtaking and a huge congratulations on you completing such a beautiful piece of art. Have a wonderful time wearing your beautiful creation.
    While I did not make something so elaborate just a velvet cape for my grand-daughter I found that stapling the edges, right on the very edge worked great. I serged most of this so a walking foot could not be used but as silly as it sounds my staples saved my day! I was fighting the movement of the material till I got mad and the stapler came out. It has to be at the very edge of the fabric especially if you are using a serger but it really did work well.
    Good luck on any of your new projects.

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