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Strapless wedding dress Help needed!

Hi!

This is my first ever blog, and im blogging to ask for your help!

Im an avid sewer and have made my Wedding dress along with a bunch of Bridesmaid dresses for various friends. I have since taken on the job of making my Best Friends wedding dress but am a little stuck on a particular problem.

I have attached the photos that I am working off as we tried on dresses and this is the one we are basing out design on.

Im ok with draping all the pleats and tacking into place (at least until secured by the side seam etc) but I am unsure as to wether the pleated ‘shell’ will be included in with the side seam of the undersupport bodice or treated as seperate piece attached as a normal bodice lining etc. Reason being is because from what I can remember of the dress the seams sat very flat and tight and were no traces of outline of the bulk from the pleating.

Does anyone have any suggestions ?? Or ideas ??

Thanks sewers..

Love

M

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  1. gazerro | | #1

    Hi, My understanding is that the dress and support garment (with boinig) are separate and joined at the top. Susan Khalje spoke to my group about Couture sewing and that is how she does it. Carolyn

  2. Memmy | | #2

    I would treat them as 2 seperate garments which are joined at the top .The boning would be attached to the under layers only . Susan Khalje has her book out now on a CD and I think I will get that as I have heard that it is he best reference around for wedding dresses etc. YOu are a brave woman!!

  3. spcouture | | #3

    Hello,
    I would first construct an underlining without pleats. Then before you sew the seams together, drape or pleat the top fabric, baste to the underlining and sew together as one at the side seams if using a back zipper. I then would use a separate lining to clean finish the inside and then create a foundation separately that would include your boning. All layers should be secured at the top. A good choice for the lining fabric is a china silk, since it is lightweight and is only needed to clean finish the inside. In the end, you will have the top pleated fabric, the underlining, the lining, and the foundation.
    I hope this helps and good luck!

  4. MelaMe | | #4

    Thank you so much for all your helpful comments..
    I had a sneak peak at a wedding dress similar to the one I am making and yes Spcoutre you are quite right. The pleated draping is sewn into the underlining/support at the side seams and C.B seam, it only seperates just below the hip level into free moving seams.
    I have just finished all my hand pleating and have now attached all my seams together and it is looking great so far. Very Exciting!!
    I will definiately post a photo after my first fitting (2nd if you count the toille) is over and down with.
    China silk sounds like a good idea for the lining, im leaving the linging until I am happy that I dont need to do any further minor ulterations.
    Wish my luck - i'd hate to have to unpick all my hours of pleating!!
    xx Mel

  5. thimbles | | #5

    This my first ever posting, blogging or just sharing with others over the 'net' - I just read your new venture and was about to give you advice, but, I see these other ladies already have said exactly what I'd do. I also (when in doubt about something) make a 'mini' scale of the project-almost like a 6 or a 9 inch replica before the actual size. Good luck...with such enthusiasm I'm sure it's going to come out beautifully. from a fellow seamstress.

  6. thimbles | | #6

    This my first ever posting, blogging or just sharing with others over the 'net' - I just read your new venture and was about to give you advice, but, I see these other ladies already have said exactly what I'd do. I also (when in doubt about something) make a 'mini' scale of the project-almost like a 6 or a 9 inch replica before the actual size. Good luck...with such enthusiasm I'm sure it's going to come out beautifully. from a fellow seamstress.

  7. goodmom | | #7

    Hey all,I am making a similar style wedding dress but the tucked draping isn't so long. I was wondering if I could prefold the ruching and then drape it on the body of the dress? It would be sewn into the seam. I'm still trying to figure out the construction so any advice would be very helpful.

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