This was my first Victorian Reproduction Gown.  I have always been fascinated by that Era and made this for a local festival in Florida.

In designing the gown, I couldn’t find any one single pattern that suited me.  So I decided to combine elements from several patterns to create the gown.  All of the patterns came from two different reproduction pattern sites.

The fabrics are modern but seemed to sell themslves!  The Bodice and Skirt are from a wonderful polyester silk that is embossed with a pleat like design. The Detachable Butterfly Train is in a black and gold striped light weight upholstery satin.  The petticoats and bustle were in a quilter’s weight cotten sateen. The gown and undergarments took almost  20 yards of material.

I used the Cuirass Bodice and modified it to a sweetheart neckline and completely lined it with the cotton.  The sleeves are slightly longer than 3/4 with a small fall of lace (about 1 inch).  I also cut the seams at 3/4 inch rather than 5/8 to allow for any changes in weight so it could be let out if needed.

The Skirt is the same fabric as the bodice but unlined.  There are 3 pleats that are made from the striped satin.  These pleats took me 3 days to make and attach!! I ended up hand sewing them in and then sewing them again with my machine.  The pleats are 2 different lengths with the center pleat being longer.  The nice thing about them is that when they were pressed they have a nice, sharp crease.  At the tops of the pleats, I hand appliqued gold triangle medallions. The back of the skirt is cartridge pleated to allow for movement both of the fabric and while walking.  The skirt opens on the left side towards the back, while the right seam has a pocket over the right hip.

The Butterfly Train was the most fun to make.  The fabric was great to work with but did tend to ravel rather badly.  It took 3 bottles of FrayChek to keep it from raveling.  I let it dry overnight and then got to work.  I used a very thin lightweight black fabric to completely line the Train pieces before I began it’s construction.

Quote “The Butterfly detachable train is a separate garment that attaches to any existing skirt, forming a bow or “butterfly” at the back of the bodice and then falling gracefully to the floor in poufs. The large poufs at the back are created with pleats at the center back. These pleats are then placed over the lower edge of a long waisted bodice and hooked in place on the bodice itself. Additional pleats at the sides help create the butterfly effect. I used heavy duty hooks to attach it to the waistband of the skirt.” End Quote from the pattern description.

The chemise was made from the same fabric which allowed it to breathe.  Since the chemise is worn under the corset, it provides a lot of comfort and wearability. I cut the front lower so it wouldn’t show under the corset and bodice.  It’s based on a picture from the Costumer’s Manifesto, without pleats or gathers.  It’s also cut fuller than other patterns to allow for the lack of pleats and gathers.

There are 2 petticoats that are worn over the bustle petticoat.  The under-petticoat  is plain with a 6″ ruffle at the bottom, while the top one has a much fuller ruffle trimmed in wide black lace. Both petticoats has the a flat front plus has a full back with extra length to fit over a bustle.

The petticoat bustle has a center front closure, and four hoop bones built into the back. This design allows for structural support for heavy skirts combined with ease of movement and wearability. This has a flat front with a 3 ” slightly gathered ruffle.

The Hat is a modified 19th Merry Widow type pattern.  It is black buckram covered with the bodice/skirt fabric, black tulle that I sprayed with light adhesive and sprinkled with extremely fine black glitter, and antique black ostrich feathers.  The are fabric roses and buds made from the train fabric with silk leaves.  It’s held on with 3 8″ long hatpins that I beaded to match the gown.  I love this hat and have since made 2 more!

I appliqued black lace medallions on the backs of the cocktail length velour gloves, the fan is one that I found at a yard sale for 50 cents.  I spray painted it black, hand painted the gold designs and glued black lace on it.

Altogether, this gown took 6 weeks to build.  All of the detail work such as hems, gloves, etc were done by hand. It frustrated me once or twice, but I had blast making this gown.  I have since made 3 more gowns and plan on making more.

 

 

 

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