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SewStylish Fall Fashion Challenge 2013

Couture Jacket

Chanel Inspired Jacket

Chanel inspired jacket was made of soft Italian wool tweed. The pattern is my own design and it was constructed using couture hand techniques. The sleeve vents were faced with bias cut facings, applied with 3/4″ extending past the finished edge. The bias edge was then frayed and trimmed to an even width of about 3/8″. Sleeve vents are functional with hand stranded buttonholes worked with silk twist.

In order to maintain the lightness found in couture, the lapel and collar facings were also cut as bias strips and shaped with steam to the proper curve. The bottom front edge of the jacket facing was shaped with two darts as necessary to curve around the lower egde. By cutting the fringe as a single layer and fraying the edge, bulk was eliminated. I tested inserting a bias strip into the seam but found it produced an edge too bulky and stiff for my desired finished effect.

The fringed edges of the pocket flaps were made from bias strips sewn along the edges, frayed, then trimmed to an even width of 3/8″.  Pocket flap linings are hand felled to the wrong side and all raw edges are turned under and fell stitched. The pockets and flaps are hand applied. The lining is also hand sewn into the completed jacket.

While time comsuming, this project produced a jacket that is very lightweight and comfortable. It moves with the body and feels wonderful.


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  1. User avater
    hvnlyhost | | #1

    Love this jacket, the work is excellent.

  2. karenteamb | | #2

    This is beautiful and beautifully made.

  3. zybet | | #3

    Looks fab! Would You share ; how many hours did it take to make it?

  4. AtelierDesigns | | #4

    Thanks for the positive comments. I estimate this took 60-70 hours to complete; not a fast and easy project. Each buttonhole took 20-30 minutes and there are 13 of them; also 3 bound buttonholes on the facing. The lapels and collar were also pad-stitched by hand. I do much of the hand work watching television in the evenings and find it relaxing. The end result is worth it. It's very hard for me to buy ready-to-wear as the fit and feel are nothing like custom. Hope this inspires you to tackle something similar.

  5. user-2872760 | | #5

    Beautiful design, shape and finish. Congratulations, and I am pea green with envy!!!

  6. user-2875343 | | #6

    I love this jacket, the attention to detail is exquisite!

  7. zybet | | #7

    Thanks AtelierDesigs. WOW! That's almost double time what I expected, but I'am sure it was worthy.

  8. smockerlady | | #8

    Hi there,

    Having made a Chanel Jacket using Claire Shaffers vogue pattern, I totally admire the stunning finish of your jacket. I want to make another jacket that this time around incorporates the collar and try out padstitching.

    I adore your pattern and wish I could purchase it. I love the soft shape of your pockets.

    Do I sound like a fan!!

  9. Sewbluetiful | | #9

    Atelier Designs,,, do you have a website or blog??


  10. AtelierDesigns | | #10

    You motivated me to get a blog up and going. I am live at http://www.atelierdesigns1.com. Not much posted yet but I have an additional dress on the site and will be adding more garments soon. I will also start posting detailed photos of works in progress and welcome comments. Thanks for noticing.

  11. wmomz | | #11

    This jacket is a classic! Congratulations on a job well done!

  12. User avater
    Fredbutler | | #12

    I want to buy this.

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