This dress was constructed for a client who was attending a formal military ball. Individual curved tucks, using Kenneth D. King’s technique (December 10, 2013, Issue 271, Threads eLetter), were incorporated into the construction and continue from the front of the gown to the back. Each tuck was individually cut and layered onto the foundation of the gown and had to perfectly align where the front and the back meet at the side seams and also from the side seams to the zipper. Bra cups were used in the bust area to provide a stable base on which to layer the tucks. I criss-crossed the fabric strips between the bust (see photo #5) for a pleasing transition from one bra cup to the other. The first fabric strip just below the bra cups concaves ever-so-slightly, once again acting as a transition from the bust to the waist. A foundation with boning and hook and eye tape closure was made to support the dress and sewn into the lining. The hem of the foundation was finished off with matching navy grosgrain ribbon. Prick stiitches, following the curve of the sweetheart neckline, were sewn on the inside to hold the top of the lining in place. I used navy blue Ambiance Bemberg Rayon for the lining. At the front, where the bottom of the bodice meets the top of the skirt, a gentle curve mirrors the curve of the sweetheart neckline, softening the lines around the hip area. The gentle curve continues to the back. The skirt portion of the gown consists of princess seams and flairs out gently from just above the knees to the hem. An invisible zipper was used so as not to detract from the detail and impact of the curved tucks. I used custom made silk organza stays to further strenghten the zipper. Rhinestone trim follows the line of the sweetheart neckline for a striking finish. 

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