Black Featherweight Sheer Wool Dress, front bodice/scarf detail.
This is a 1937 cocktail dress originally from Vogue. I opted for the short sleeve version with the full scarf which is in one with the bodice front. The ends of the scarf tie in Ascot manner at the neck. Because I used a sheer wool, I set out to create a contrast between transparency and opacity by leavng the sleeves and bodice front/scarf un-lined where the rest of the dress is lined. I also cut the skirt lining shorter to allow the transparency of this beautiful wool to read really well at the lower hem.
The process is documented in my blog starting here with detail photos and explanations:
I created an ensemble with this dress and a 1938 Vogue coat, next in my reviews here.
Black Featherweight Sheer Wool Dress, front bodice/scarf detail.
I varied the length of the skirt hem and that of the skirt lining to allow the sheer dress wool to read as transparent, thus creating a gradient effect.
The free edges of the scarf and those of the center bodice front are roll-hemmed (shown here in contrasting thread for demonstration).
I sewed the skirt in a directional manner to sew with the grain and reduce puckering in this featherweight fabric. I finished the skirt seams and skirt lining seams via self-bound (a.k.a felled-French) seams, shown on the lining for better visibility here.
I used a sheer fabric technique from Threads issue #172 to finish the sheer sleeve hems with self-edging. I did not reinforce this edging with design plus tape although I used it in other parts of the dress such as the neck portion of the rolled-hem scarf edges to support the weight of buttons. I also reinforced the skirt hem with the stay tape.
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A lovely design and from the photos it really looks very well made.