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Pattern Review: Deer and Doe Genêt D0043

Threads #221, Spring 2023

Trouser-Style Pants


Skill Level:

Moderate, for the confident sewer. Follow the instructions to the letter and there will be no issues.

Size Range and Fitting:

Sized 34 to 60 for waists 23-3/4 inches to 49-5/8 inches and hips 33-3/4 inches to 60 inches. These pants are fitted at the waist and full elsewhere. The finished measurements are accurate.


Select medium-weight woven fabrics with drape, such as cotton, linen, wool sateen, lightweight twill, denim, and velvet. For the trouser view, our tester recommends three-season woolens, silk dupioni, or twill. For the shorts, consider lightweight denim.

close up of welt pocket on trousers

Style and Sewing Details:

View A is trouser-style pants with straight legs and tailored details. View B is shorts with a 5-inch-long inseam.

  • The design has a three-piece straight waistband with five belt loops, a button closure, and separate facings. The belt carrier ends are inserted in the upper and lower seams on the waistband.
  • The pants have a fly-front zipper closure, partially sewn pleats (two on each side), and angled pockets in front. In back, there are two waistline darts, and welt pockets.
  • The waistband’s bottom edge sits at the natural waistline.
  • The illustrations and instructions are accurate, but pay attention to step 1, #4, to accurately transfer the welt pocket markings and sew the back waist darts. Also in step 4, #11, take care not to catch any other material in the seam while securing the fly shield.
  • All seam lengths match, but there are no notches marked on the pattern. Add some for convenience.
  • The pant legs have 2-1/8-inch-deep hem allowances, while the shorts have curved, faced hems. Both hems are machine-stitched in place.

Deer and Doe Genêt D0043 shorts version

This review was originally published in Threads #221, Spring 2023. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.

Photos: Jack Deutsch. Illustrations: Cassandra Bernier.

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