Working with Vintage Patterns

How to Replace a Broken Zipper

November 4th, 2008 in sewing, fundamentals

Threads Magazine, editor

12 users recommend

Remove the old stitching without unstitching the waistband

Remove the old zipper

Add Comment
Print

by the editors of Threads
from Threads #139, p. 58

Remove the zipper without undoing any of the visible topstitching, and slide a new zipper into place. You'll hand stitch one side to attach it invisibly.

Remove the zipper.


Stitch the underlap side by machine.

Working with a seam ripper, remove the stitches holding the original zipper in place. On the fly underlap, you'll create a slot between the jeans front and the fly shield. On the overlap, simply pick out the stitches. At the waistband and bottom of the fly, cut the zipper tape to release the zipper. Don't unstitch the waistband.

With the zipper right-side up, slide one side of the tape into the opening you created between the fly shield and the pants front. Fold the top of the tape under. Pin or baste the tape in position. Install a zipper foot on the sewing machine, and stitch the zipper close to the edge of the pants front, sewing from the top of the zipper as far down the tape as you can.


Backstitch the overlap side by hand.

Close the zipper. Working from the inside of the jeans, pin the free tape in place on the wrong side of the fly overlap. Align the tape along the original stitching line, and fold the top of the tape under. Open the zipper. Using a sturdy needle and a double strand of thread, backstitch the tape firmly to the jeans. Stitch through only the inner layer of fabric so no stitches show on the outside of the jeans.

How to shorten a zipper
You may need to shorten the new zipper to fit into the fly opening. To do so, measure the length of the teeth portion of the original zipper, and measure down from the top stop of the new zipper. Stitch a new bottom stop by zigzagging across the zipper teeth; then cut off the bottom of the zipper with diagonal cutters. Note: It's not advisable to shorten this zipper from the top, because, in this repair, the upper end is not enclosed by the waistband. Without an upper stop, the slider is likely to slide right off the top of the zipper, leaving you with one option for getting out of your jeans—scissors!

posted in: sewing, fundamentals

Add Comment Print

Comments (4)

caseycarte writes: I'm agreeing, this is a terrible way to replace a zipper. I don't know of any of my customers who would want a hand stitched zipper in their jeans. I certainly would not. Posted: 12:57 pm on November 3rd

andsewon writes: I totally agree with fasthorse on the zipper technique. When I replace zippers,(no matter the length, I have done 3") I do it exactly the way the zipper was put in the first place. Posted: 1:46 pm on May 31st

fasthorse writes: If I tried this method my clients would have a cow. They would prefer the work be finished professionally and in a way that will last. If I can't find matching thread in the correct weight, I double the thread in my needle of the matching lighter weight thread which usually matches tthe original thread. Furthermore, if somebody is looking that closely at the zipper area of your pants, they need to be slugged. This article is not up to your usual standards, I hope this is not a sign of things to come. Posted: 1:04 am on May 10th

Cheryllyn writes: Too bad that you don't show how to put the zipper in completely with the machine, which makes it stronger. Posted: 7:55 am on January 4th

You must be logged in to post comments. Click here to login.