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How to Replace a Broken Zipper

Remove the old zipper
Remove the old stitching without unstitching the waistband
Tools for shortening a zipper
Remove the old zipper

Remove the old zipper



by the editors of Threads
from Threads #139, p. 58

Remove the zipper without undoing any of the visible topstitching, and slide a new zipper into place. You'll hand stitch one side to attach it invisibly.

Remove the zipper
Remove the zipper.

 

Stitch the underlap side
Stitch the underlap side by machine.  

Working with a seam ripper, remove the stitches holding the original zipper in place. On the fly underlap, you'll create a slot between the jeans front and the fly shield. On the overlap, simply pick out the stitches. At the waistband and bottom of the fly, cut the zipper tape to release the zipper. Don't unstitch the waistband.

With the zipper right-side up, slide one side of the tape into the opening you created between the fly shield and the pants front. Fold the top of the tape under. Pin or baste the tape in position. Install a zipper foot on the sewing machine, and stitch the zipper close to the edge of the pants front, sewing from the top of the zipper as far down the tape as you can.

Backstitch the overlap side
Backstitch the overlap side by hand.

Close the zipper. Working from the inside of the jeans, pin the free tape in place on the wrong side of the fly overlap. Align the tape along the original stitching line, and fold the top of the tape under. Open the zipper. Using a sturdy needle and a double strand of thread, backstitch the tape firmly to the jeans. Stitch through only the inner layer of fabric so no stitches show on the outside of the jeans.

How to shorten a zipper
You may need to shorten the new zipper to fit into the fly opening. To do so, measure the length of the teeth portion of the original zipper, and measure down from the top stop of the new zipper. Stitch a new bottom stop by zigzagging across the zipper teeth; then cut off the bottom of the zipper with diagonal cutters. Note: It's not advisable to shorten this zipper from the top, because, in this repair, the upper end is not enclosed by the waistband. Without an upper stop, the slider is likely to slide right off the top of the zipper, leaving you with one option for getting out of your jeans—scissors!

Tools for shortening a zipper

 

ThreadsMagazine Threads Magazine, editor
Posted on Nov 4th, 2008 in sewing, fundamentals, zippers, skirts, pants

Comments (8)

TigerB TigerB writes: Threads, thank you so much. My expensive custom jeans had a defective zipper... and I was able to replace it myself with this tutorial. As somebody with less than no interest in ripping the waistband apart, I really appreciate this web page!
Posted: 1:03 am on January 17th

marbis marbis writes: A broken slider you can also replace with the new innovative click system. I just used one on my boot.
www.fix-a-zipper.com
Easy!! In seconds ready without sewing.
Posted: 8:31 am on October 16th

czaratyranikal czaratyranikal writes: Whoa there, professional seamstresses! As someone who is BEGINNING to sew and make clothing repairs (mostly to save money) this was an awesome tutorial. It shows me how to replace a zipper myself without completely destroying the topstitching that I, as a beginner, could never duplicate. It's always important to remember that just because you're an expert does not mean everyone is.
Posted: 10:02 pm on November 16th

sweetgrandma_06 sweetgrandma_06 writes: Comments are a little harsh, perhaps they could tell us how they recommend how to sew that part on the machine, rather than by hand. I find it hard to do without seeing some kind of imperfection.:)
Posted: 3:59 pm on March 19th

caseycarte caseycarte writes: I'm agreeing, this is a terrible way to replace a zipper. I don't know of any of my customers who would want a hand stitched zipper in their jeans. I certainly would not.
Posted: 12:57 pm on November 3rd

andsewon andsewon writes: I totally agree with fasthorse on the zipper technique. When I replace zippers,(no matter the length, I have done 3") I do it exactly the way the zipper was put in the first place.
Posted: 1:46 pm on May 31st

fasthorse fasthorse writes: If I tried this method my clients would have a cow. They would prefer the work be finished professionally and in a way that will last. If I can't find matching thread in the correct weight, I double the thread in my needle of the matching lighter weight thread which usually matches tthe original thread. Furthermore, if somebody is looking that closely at the zipper area of your pants, they need to be slugged. This article is not up to your usual standards, I hope this is not a sign of things to come.
Posted: 1:04 am on May 10th

Cheryllyn Cheryllyn writes: Too bad that you don't show how to put the zipper in completely with the machine, which makes it stronger.
Posted: 7:55 am on January 4th

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