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Hidden button placket

missgrowly | Posted in Patterns on

I have designed a jacket/coat and I can’t decide how to close it. I want to use a zipper, but I can’t find a 16″ orange separating zipper (rather I found one, and didn’t get it, now I can’t find it again!) So I was going to put a hidden button placket. However, I made a portrait collar/lapel, and I can’t figure out how to make it look nice on the facing side. I made another button facing that I lined with the lining fabric.. but it is square, and it looks like I stuck it there, and it ruins the look if I put it on. does anyone have any ideas? I’m a very experienced seamstress with a degree in design, but sometimes u need some help with your ideas!! PLEASE..

Replies

  1. starzoe | | #1

    For a hidden button placket you need to cut the pattern with the extra fabric it uses. If you already have the item almost finished, you don't have enough fabric to allow for the extra foldbacks.

    You can use a longer zipper than the 16" one and either fold the top back into the facing or cut the zipper shorter at the top (after making a new stop with either thread or fabric.

    Have you thought of using an alternative closing: frogs, ties, buttons and loops, etc.?

    1. User avater
      missgrowly | | #2

      My coat has a lapel, so wouldn't allow for fold backs anyway. I was going to put an extra piece in the seamline of the facing/lining and put the buttonholes in it (was thinking of having one side the face fabric, and lined with lining), but I can't figure out the shape of it, so it won't roll open at the lapel and show the piece. Also, I thought about putting welt buttonholes in the REAL facing, and just tacking the facing to the outside in that area so it won't pull away. There is embroidery on the face so I can't put the buttons to the front. I wish I could add pics to show u.

      1. Teaf5 | | #3

        Not sure if I understand the description correctly, but couldn't you make the placket only long enough to span between the top and bottom buttons? The lapel folds back above the top button, but the placket doesn't have to go all the way up the front unless you need to have the buttoned-to-the-neckline option.

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