Hello All,
I’m a first semester fashion design student. So I’m just learning how to sew and make patterns out of draped muslin. For my final project I’m making a shift dress which I made some of the pattern for already. I’ve done the c.front and c.back. My question then is how to make the pattern for the armhole. My seam allowance for the armhole is 1/4”. So do I only put fusible interfacing on the 1/4″ for facing and do a clean-edge seam to finish it or do I have to make a pattern for the armhole facing? I’m pretty confused at this point. Is there anyone that could help me out? I’m pretty desperate in need of help!
thanks a million,
wendy
Replies
I think it's usually better to have a separate pattern piece for the armhole facing but it might depend on the fabric you intend to use. If shirt-weight cotton, then a separate facing. If a sheer, you might want a different approach. But the pattern for the heavier fabric is easy. Trace the armhole and the shoulder and side seams for about 1.5 or 2 inches. Mark the cutting edge parallel to the armhole about 1.5 or 2 inches away. If it's sheer, a tiny bias binding that either shows or is stitched down inside. I hope that gives you a way to start thinking about it. rjf
I have quit using facings as in the whole big piece and went to a small bias tape to finish my arm/neck openings. I just think it looks prettier and is much easier. Plus you can make a nice contrast fabric the bias or the garment fabric.
Is there a requirement for such a narrow seam allowance? It doesn't leave much room for error, or fraying, or any of the problems you might encounter. I've lately found I prefer bias binding necks and armholes, facings are a pain to clip and press, and tend to flop around or show when you don't want them to. You can have the bias show or not, be self-fabric or decorative. If you press it into shape before sewing it on the results are smoothe and beautiful.
Thanks so much for your suggestions. I didn't have much luck making the armhole pattern. So I decided to go with the bias tape. It's easier and less time as most of you stated. I couldn't have done it w/.out you :-)
wendy
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