Sandra Betzina Patterns for Vogue
carol_broscheid | Posted in The Archives on
*
These patterns are described in the latest Vogue pattern magazine. As soon as I can figure out what size to buy I am going to try one out. Finally a pattern designed for larger than a B cup (although I don’t anticipate being able to give up ALL my usual pattern alterations). Would love to hear what others think of these patterns and any experiences in using them.
Replies
*
I'd like to hear more about these patterns. Can someone list the pattern numbers with a style description. Also something about the sizing. this sounds interesting!!
*I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT YOUR NEW SPIRAL BOOK ON SEWING. I JUST HAD A GLANCE AT ONE OF THE COMMERCIALS AND DIDN'T GET ALL THE INFO THAT I NEEDED. CAN YOU TELL ME MORE?ALSO, I LOVE YOUR SHOW AND WOULD LIKE TO SEE MORE TRICKS ON ISLANDER SEWING?THANKS!!
*Donna - This is not a message board for Sandra Betzina. It is about her new patterns for Vogue. You might try http://www.sandrabetzina.com I think this is the correct URL for her web site.
*I was at a sewing fair in WA state and saw Sandra and bought the new Vogue jacket pattern. The sizing is totally differant than regular Vogue sizing and it was a little confusing. There are 3 sizes in an envelope. The smaller sizes are for a B cup and the larger sizes are for C and D. There was a cute wrap blouse and the pants are next on my list to buy. Has anyone else seen them ???
*There is a discussion at Sewing World on this subject. Check http://www.sewingworld.com under the Pattern Fitting Alterations folder.
*The most recent Vogue Patterns book explains in detail the patterns, her method of fitting and includes a sizing chart. You could always check out the website at http://www.voguepatterns.com, the new patterns will be shown there, too.
*Sandra's new patterns are in the latest Vogue catalog and can be found in the Plus size section. They have their own sizing from A to J (bust 32-55). They assume that you get taller and your cup size increases as the size goes up which won't work for everyone.I bought several of these patterns yesterday and have been working on the pants. The instructions look quite good and give a lot of detail on the little ways to fine-tune a garment. There is one error I have found so far on the pants--the pleat fold does not line up with the crease. She includes a lot of instruction on alterations that is very helpful. I'll let you know how the pants fit when they're done.
*I checked out the Sandra Betzina/Vogue patterns this weekend, and the sizing, for me, is still no improvement. Oh well. But I did get the wrap top and the skirt.
*I made the pants but had no trouble with the pleats lining up with the crease. Did you make a fit adjustment?
*The crease should be in the middle of the pant leg. If you fold the unaltered front pattern piece in half lengthwise, the crease does not line up with the leading edge of the pleat but comes somewhere in the middle of the pleat.
*I have not looked at the Betzina pants pattern, but I have encountered patterns where the pleat does not line up with the crease. Placing the pleat slightly off the center line is one of those things you can do to tweak the overall appearance of a pattern. This trick appears to be used more often in menswear, but I could be mistaken.Of course each sewer must decide whether an off center pleat is satisfactory personally. And there will always be some sewers who will be deeply offended that a rule has been broken!
*I have no problem tweaking patterns but Sandra states in her instructions that the crease should line up with the pleat and it clearly doesn't on the pattern. In the section on alterations she tells you that if you add width to the pants be sure to move the pleat so that it lines up with the new crease. If a novice sewer attempts these pants, she would be sure to be confused when the pattern piece does not agree with the instructions.
*I attended Sandra's fit seminar this weekend. She had slopers from each of her jacket sizes and from each of her trouser sizes. I watched women that were a size 4 up to the upper end of her pattern sizes with every fitting "problem" imaginable. There were women with athletic legs to the dowager hump. Here is what I found. Sandra's new sizing will make a jacket or trouser sewn up without alteration much nearer to ready to wear than Vogue's sloper. (No more baggy thighs and neck!) But because of the fitting lines, it is easier to make simple adjustments. For instance, I use Vogue's size 12 bodice, increase to a 16 below the arm hole and 18 below the waist--and then adjust the bustline larger and lower, narrow the back, fudge with the crotch lines, etc. etc. With Sandra's jacket, I was a size D but everywhere but the back where I need to cut a size C from the shouders to the waist. And for a perfect fit, take in the back seam lines a tad. (Ready to wear never fit me in the back.) With Sandra's patterns, fitting is much less work--evidenced by the class attendees.
*Tere, thanks so much for telling us about your experience with Sandra's fit seminar. Was this in San Francisco? Wish I could have been there. I have all her patterns but am having trouble fitting the wrap top -- I love the style. Please tell us more - I make extensive alterations to a Vogue size 14 including slashing and spreading 1 1/4" for the bust. I tried size E in Sandra's pattern and the front looks pretty good but I can't get the back to fit right -- the fabric bunches up under the arms -- even after I made the round back alteration. If you have time tell us more about what you observed and learned at this fit workshop. Thanks so much.
*Watching her make adjustments on several types of figures, the first thing that she would do would be to try to correct the problem with a horizontal fold in the trial garment before she made vertical corrections. Follow your instincts (or it helps to have a friend/husband assist). From a side view, if it looks like you can grab alot of extra fabric below the arms, the back may be too long just from the arms down. On the other hand, if the problem isn't as evident from the side as from looking directly at the back, the back may have too much width. I just finished a silk tweed jacket using her pattern. I cut the back a whole size smaller because my problem was too much width. I've ordered the wrap top through Vogue Patters "buy one, get two free" offer and am waiting to try it.(PS Sandra speaks at seminars around the country. She was sponsored by the American Sewing Guild in New Hampshire.)
*I'm not surprised at all to hear this. Sounds like Sandra through and through.
*I just finished Vogue's Today's Fit jacket in a silk tweed (easy to sew). This is my first tailored jacket in 30 years since my mother taught me hand pad stitching. Memories of my poor pricked fingers kept me away all these years. At any rate, I am thrilled with the result! The jacket fits beautifully because of the additional seams. I followed her advice and underlined the entire jacket in Fusi-knit. Used Unique Techniques (Judy Barlup) fusible stay tape. One piece of advice, the armholes are smaller than I am used to. I am wearing it with a silk shell but anything thicker would be uncomfortable. For the winter, I guess I'll try a whole size larger for my turtlenecks. Now on to the wrap top and double layer long skirt.
*Tere, what other changes did you have to make on this pattern? Would it be easy to lower the armholes and increase the cap height or would this spoil the look? I will be interested in hearing how the wrap top turns out. I had trouble fitting this and put it away for the time being but I think it's a great style. Thanks for your input.
*Carol, I can appreciate your fit frustrations. I tried Palmer & Pletch's method of taping and clipping the seams of the paper pattern, then trying the pattern on. The sewn garments were consistently too large. I think you need a sewing buddy to have success. I thought Nancy Zeimann's pivot & slide method easy but she didn't address the changes for bust sizes clearly. And pivot and slide didn't solve all my problems. Plus with multisize patterns, I just trace the width I needed. Then I got a book called Fitting and Pattern Alterations. It addresses every problem under the sun and gives you three alternatives for making alternations. But it seems like so much work to alter every new pattern that I keep making the same old style. Finally I took a "make your own sloper" course. Great, I have something that fits like a cocktail dress. I don't need another cocktail dress. What do I do with it? Finally last November there was a Threads article on using your personal sloper to make alterations on other patterns. It makes so much sense. What I am trying to say is: take a close fitting pattern that fits you and compare it to the wrap top. It might be worth trying Unique Patterns because the first pattern in their series is a sloper. By sending in your measurements, they use a computer to develop your patterns.
*Fit is so important to me so I bought Sandra's jacket and wrap top patterns. I am about to do a toile for the jacket but hate all the faffing around.Do you think that it is necessary with the jacket pattern. I have also,after much frustration,made a trouser block. Is Sandra's trouser pattern that much different from the usual American pattern companies which I have to drastically alter for my generous curves?
*I haven't been here in a long time! Tere, did you see "Part Two" of using your personal sloper as a fitting tool in the latest issue of Threads? I haven't tried it yet but it does seem to have some merit. I have decided to try Unique Patterns and will get my measurements off to them this week. I am so tired of altering I will try anything! I am ordering the basic dress (sloper) and a basic pants pattern. Wendy, I would make the jacket in muslin first. No matter how well the pattern fits some people we are all shaped so differently. I don't like surprises! Some changes have to be made before the pattern is cut out.
*I made the pants, shorts, and skirt, and I'm thrilled with the results! They fit with only minor alterations (raising the back waist 1/2"). Finally, pants that don't bag under my rear end! I have been working on a pants pattern for 2 years, with much frustration, trying to get it to fit right, and now I can throw all that away and just use Sandra's pattern. The skirt turned out great as well - very flattering. I'm anxious to try the top and jacket.
*Please tell me how I can contact Unique Patterns so I can get a pants pattern that fits. Thanks
*Everything you need to know about ordering from Unique Patterns can be found at their website: http://www.uniquepatterns.com
*Wendy: I haven't made-up the pattern yet, but I"ve read the instructions carefully. The pattern takes a lot of the extra fullnes under the seat out, so you don't have all the bagginess there, has a real back crotch curve, like Burda Patterns, allows for a real tummy with pleats that hang straight (and don't get filled-up with your tummy instead), and gives lots of alteration info on sway back, flat seat, large thighs, and accomodating all the typical anomalies of the female form from the standard skinny dress form that patterns are made for. It offers the option of an elasticized back waist, as well.- Joan
This post is archived.