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Three piece sleeve draft

clarkebmc | Posted in Patterns on

Hi,

Would anyone know where I might find instructions or an example of drafting a three-piece sleeve (as opposed to the usual two-piece)?

I’ve looked in Aldrich (both mens and ladies) and Armstrong and I did a quick Google, but I didn’t see anything appropriate.

TIA

/* Bernie */

Replies

  1. FitnessNut | | #1

    I don't think I've ever encountered a three piece sleeve. Please describe it.

    1. clarkebmc | | #2

      Hi Sandy,

      If a "traditional" mens suit/coat/jacket sleeve has two pieces, one for the front/top

      and one for the back/bottom, then a three piece sleeve has three pieces.

      I can't describe it very well. :-(

      I have a live example, a "car coat" made in England, that  I purchased on Ebay.

      I can see what it looks like, but I'm not sure how one would divide up the circumference of the arm into "thirds"?  to draft a pattern.

      My (poor) memory tells me that there was a three-piece sleeve mentioned/described in Claire Schaffer's (sp?) book on Couture Sewing, but I could be wrong. My recollection is that the three-piece gives a better/more comfortable fit.

      /* Bernie */

      1. ShannonG4d | | #3

        There is also a brief diagram of the sleeve in Claire's first Chanel jacket article.  It's in issue #23 "The Comfortable Side of Couture."

        Shannon

        1. clarkebmc | | #4

          Thanks Shannon,

          I looked at home, last night.

          Sadly, this is one of the few, early issues that we do not have. :-( Sigh.

          /* Bernie */

          1. CarolFresia | | #5

            Bernie, you're in luck because that issue is still available, and we're having a sale on back issues right now! I just looked back at that article. I'd forgotten how much detail is in there about the construction of a Chanel jacket. I must say, it seems very labor intensive, but a lot of the techniques could be adapted for other types of garments as well.

            Carol

          2. clarkebmc | | #6

            Thanks Carol,

            I just order that, and several more, back issues...

            Ffilling in the "holes" in the library. :-)

            /* Bernie */

          3. SewNancy | | #7

             I have read that article and it is extremely labor intensive!  The latest issue of Vogue mag.  shows a current Chanel jacket, a limited edition and shows the lining to the edge so it must be done the way Claire's article descirbes.  Also has a matching blouse as many of Chanels clothes did.  No wonder the outfit goes for over 5 grand.  If I remember correctly the sleeve and the jacket had an underarm panel to facilitate better movement and comfort.

            Nancy

          4. CarolFresia | | #8

            Yes, that's how the bodice and sleeve are designed. Makes good sense, actually, and probably isn't much trouble once you have it drafted. It's the hand-sewing of all the bits and pieces together that made me squint my eyes at it! And I suspect that many of  those who really spend $5000 on such an ensemble have no idea what they're actually wearing!

            Carol

          5. SewNancy | | #9

            I don't have the time  nor the eyesight to do this either.  The other thing is that like the original Chanels, the matching lining and blouse make it hard to wear with anything else so you spend 5 grand for an outfit that can only be worn one way!  What does appeal to me is that the jacket is supposed to be like wearing a sweater it is so comfortable.  Wonder if there is a way to duplicate this without as much handwork.

            Nancy

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