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3 Techniques for V-Necklines in Knits

Three methods to help you get to the point
Threads #214, Summer 2021
Add polish to a knit dress with a sharply mitered neckband. Pattern: author’s design. Fabric: polyester/spandex ponte knit, FabricMartFabrics.com.

V-necks are attractive because they highlight the wearer’s face and elongate the neck. With a change of accessories, a V-neck knit top or dress can easily be dressed up or down, making it a comfortable and useful wardrobe staple. However, V-necks in knits have the unfortunate reputation for being a hassle to sew well.

true miter v-neck

Over the last few years, as I have expanded my work wardrobe (composed mostly of dressy knitwear), I’ve developed a few methods to make perfect V-neck bands in knit fabrics. The first method, which I call the faux miter, bypasses the most difficult step of a V-neck band. The more traditional second method relies on reconstructing and inserting a true mitered band. The final method begins with an overlapped V point, which is inserted into the neckline. All three techniques yield equally nice results, so the choice is yours. As a bonus, these methods can be used to create square neckline bands or asymmetrical neckbands that come to an off-center point. There’s no longer a reason to hesitate when sewing a V-neck. You’ll get a professionally finished result every time, with any one of these three techniques.

Prepare the band and bodice

The beginning steps for sewing a V-neck are the same no matter what technique you choose for attaching the band: prepping the band strips, and doing some initial sewing on the garment. These instructions are written for a 5/8-inch-wide seam allowance.

Band strip

1. Cut the band strip. For a finished band that is 3/8 inch wide—an attractive width in most knit fabrications—cut a 2-inch-wide strip. Make the strip several inches longer than the total neckline circumference; you’ll stretch and cut it to fit during the application process. Wider bindings may be appropriate for sportier looks. Use self-fabric or a…

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