To be effective, the zigzag finish needs to be done on the very edge of the fabric as well. Stitch so that the outside points of the zigzag are off of the fabric.I generally use a 3mm stitch width and a 2 mm stitch length, but always test the stitches on a scrap of fabric and adjust accordingly.

Sew along the very edge of the fabric so the stitch binds the edge.

And remember -- it's important to finish and press seams as you go, whatever method you choose, because you can't finish a seam completely if you've  crossed it with another seam.

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Mary Ray, contributor
Posted on Dec 9th, 2010 in sewing, tips & tricks, how-to, fundamentals, sewing machine, seam, edge, cutting

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Comments (12)

silverlining writes: Thank you for the article. I can really use this educational information.
Posted: 6:00 pm on February 3rd

MaryRay writes: RACU,
In answer to your question about finishing princess seams -- It always depends on the fabric, but I think that there are times when the finishes I used in this post can be appropriate. If the curve on the seam is deep, you'll need to do some clipping which opens up the seam allowance. This is not a problem when you pink a seam, but if you finish the edge with a zigzag stitch, be sure you let the seam allowance spread at the clips so it shapes over the bust area then do your zigzag stitching letting the stitch form a "chain" across the open areas.
I hope this makes sense!
Mary
Posted: 12:23 pm on December 15th

Villa_for2 writes: I'm finishing a cotton, navy, v-neck dress with buttons down the front.
I used a lighter blue hong kong finish on the lapel facing's edge just for me to admire. Its a medium weight cotton so I will finish the seams with pinking shears, they raveled slightly. Then pressing will be easier.

PINKING SHEARS DO HAVE A PROPER PLACE IN SEWING, we decide how much effort to put into a project. I made my dress special with the welt looking pockets and hongkong finish, but its just an older Ebay pattern. I think its a sharp looking, tailored summer dress, so it suits me fine.

Our choices of color, style and fabric makes our design unique. Its our own creation, we are the artist at work!

I enjoyed the challenge of reducing the 1980s "football" shoulders after reading one of your articles. "Fitting/Alteration is the title but I failed to copy the month and year, it just says page 20.

I'll put your good information to work, and thanks.


Posted: 7:49 pm on December 13th

rkr4cds1 writes: For the first time, I'm disappointed in the follow-through of a Topic lead-in.
After showing the example of a reversible hem in the 'teaser', I was expecting some brilliant new ideas along the lines of David's shirt techniques.
While these are all good basic techniques that everyone should learn, and realizing that there will always be newcomers eager to expand their skills, had they been identified more clearly as such—BASIC Uses of Pinking & Zig-Zag—in the subject title, I wouldn't be so disappointed.
Please give us more advanced, NEW finishing ideas next time, for inspiration??
Thank You!
Posted: 11:29 am on December 11th

racu writes: Thanks for this tip! I have a question: how do you finish a princess seam in shirts?
Posted: 10:37 am on December 11th

Tamra writes: To prevent tunneling, I usually use a multiple-stitch zig-zag to finish edges. It uses a bit more thread, but is very flat. I generally use a 3 mm width and a 1 or 1.5 mm length. I also use it for understitching, especially on curves, because again, it holds the inside seam edges very flat.

If you want to use a regular zig-zag stitch, loosen your tension a bit and hold your fabric taut to prevent tunneling.
Posted: 9:30 pm on December 10th

sandysewin writes: Beensewingfor50years, instead of paper, you might try a strip of tear away stabilizer under any fabrics that seem to want to bunch up. Love that stuff!

I'm not sure what you mean by the edge being scrunched "into a little round pile," but if your fabric is "tunneling" when you zig-zag you might try adjusting your tension or using a narrower zig-zag.

If you mean that it's balling up (making a thread nest) at the beginning, try holding the bobbin and needle threads behind the presser foot and very gently tug on them as you start sewing. This is one of my favorite tricks to keep points and corners from getting scrunched.

Also, isn't the idea to finish each edge separately and leave the seams pressed open?
Posted: 8:45 am on December 10th

revivalfabrics writes: Another great use for a rotary cutter! I finish the edges of many of my projects with a rotary cutter. After a few washes the raw edges can look a little fuzzy but still look finished and unique.
Posted: 11:37 pm on December 9th

barbz38 writes: great tips. thanks a whole bunch.
Posted: 10:38 pm on December 9th

beensewingfor50years writes: I would love to zigzag just the edge of my seams, but if I do it scrunches the raw edge into a little round pile. Perhaps I should place paper under the raw edge and stitch the two layers?
Posted: 10:10 pm on December 9th

UnfinishedProjects writes: I didn't know there was a rotary cutter with pinked edges. Thanks for sharing! That looks so much easer to use.
Posted: 9:54 pm on December 9th

PointPatou writes: I find it easier to use the rotary cutter for pinked edges.

Thanks for the refresher.
Posted: 6:04 pm on December 9th

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