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attaching lining to invisible zipper …

Elizabeth_Corr | Posted in The Archives on

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I have a couple of very good (read $) dresses with 22″ back zippers. an invisible zipper was used and the lining was attached to the zipper by machine. does any one know how to do this? thanks.

Replies

  1. Bill_Stewart | | #1

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    You can do this one of two ways. either by cutting off 1/4" of lining edge that corresponds to the edge zipper is sewn to, then reaching between the lining and garment and grabbing the lining edge and zipper tape edge and pulling them betwen garment and linging to outside - you now have the right side of the zipper/garment edge to the right side of the lining - match the edges up from the top of zipper to bottom and take a scant 1/4" seam, turn garment back to normal appearance, now reach between lining and garment on other side of zipper and proceed as above - this removes 1/4" of lining so it can't roll into the teeth and get caught. the other way is to proceed as above BUT DO NOT CUT OFF THE 1/4" - once you are between the lining and garment, slide the lining raw edge 1/4" beyond the zipper tape edge and take a scant 1/4" seam on the zipper tape - this removes the 1/4" without cutting it. ONE NOTE - be sure the linging opening is at least 1" longer than the distance to the zipper STOP so that when the linging is completely sewn the allowance can gently roll back to the full seam allowance on the seamline below the zipper. when finished attaching the linging on machine, you can sew the "V" of the opening in the lining to the zipper tape in that shape - so long as the seam of the lining is centered on the bottom part of the zipper tape. hope this helps Bill

    1. Peggy_Abrams | | #2

      *I would like to add one additional suggestion to Bill Stewart's instructions above. I have had great success attaching linings and facings to invisible zippers entirely by machine by using the procedure described by Mr. Stewart, however, I sew the lining to the entire seam allowance, sandwiching the zipper tape between the lining and seam allowance, and do this PRIOR TO ATTACHING THE LINING OR FACING TO THE NECK OR WAISTLINE EDGE. I then press the lining away from the zipper from the lining's right side, to prevent the lining from drifting into the zipper teeth. Finally, I then turn the lining or facing so that the neck or waistline edge has right side of lining/facing to right side of garment, pulling the zipper seam allowance to the lining/facing side so that it is folded back against the right side of the garment with the zipper teeth edge in the fold. When the neckline or waistline seam is sewn and then turned right sides out, the zipper tape is caught in the neck or waist seam, and the lining/zipper taped seam lies perfectly flat.

      1. Monica | | #3

        *I've done this lining thing according to the directions in Clotilde's book "Sew Smart". It's by far the nicest finish for a zipper and/or lining I've ever seen. You can find the book in her catalog at 800-772-2891. It's also loaded with other great tips and techniques that have really improved my results. And no, I don't work for her!

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