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Pattern Review: Burda Style Blazer 105 (1050523)

Threads #225, Spring 2024
Tested and sewn by Susan Swiss Berlam, Pawcatuck, Connecticut. Blazer 105, featured in Burda Style magazine May 2023. Fabric: linen, UniversityOfFashion.com.

Ruffle-Trimmed Blazer

BurdaStyle.com

Skill Level:

This pattern is in the May 2023 Burda Style magazine or available as a PDF at BurdaStyle.com. Sewing it requires significant skill. The seam allowances must be added to the pattern pieces. The instructions are minimal and not illustrated, and the construction order does not follow a traditional sequence.

Size Range and Fitting:

European sizes 36 to 44 for busts 33 inches to 39-1 ⁄4 inches and waists 26 inches to 32-1⁄4 inches.

Fabrics:

Choose a light- or medium-weight linen, wool, velvet, denim, or brocade.

Style and Sewing Details:Ruffle-Trimmed Blazer

This fully lined blazer has a stand-up notched collar with peaked lapels, front panels with a ruffle-trimmed plastron, and an asymmetrical front. The two-piece set-in sleeves have a padded cap with a lower puffed section that is gathered and appliquéd to the upper sleeve and finished with an elastic casing at the wrist. In the back, there are princess seams and a center-back seam with a vent at the hemline.

•  The pattern does not include finished garment measurements. The muslin has 3 inches to 4 inches of ease at the bustline.

• Step 2, preparing the ruffle, says to fold the ruffle lengthwise, with right sides in. It should say to fold it with wrong sides in.

• The instructions say to insert the upper sleeve, hem the jacket, sew in the lining, and then finish the sleeve cuffs. Our tester recommends finishing the sleeves before attaching them and before inserting the lining.

• Consider applying the collar differently from the instructions: Sew the collar with right sides together, turn, press, and baste it to the garment, then sew on the facing in one seam.

• The sleeve pattern pieces do not include lengthen/shorten lines. If adjustment is necessary, alter the lower pattern piece.

•  Add a snap beneath the left lapel to keep the…

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