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Pattern Review: Simplicity 9789 and 9790

Threads #225, Spring 2024
Tested by Rebecca Armitage, Wakefield, Rhode Island. Sewn by Samina Mirza, Katy, Texas Simplicity 9789, view A top and view D skirt. Fabric: rayon/spandex jersey, SawyerBrook.com.

Sophisticated Knits

Simplicity.com

Skill Level:

This pattern is for the intermediate sewist. Experience helps with managing the invisible zipper insertion into a seam with gathered fabric.

Size Range and Fitting:

Pattern 9789 is sized Misses’ 4 to 20 for busts 29-1 ⁄ 2 inches to 42 inches, waists 22 inches to 34 inches and hips 31-1 ⁄ 2 inches to 44 inches. Pattern 9790 is Women’s sizes 20W to 38W. It fits busts 42 inches to 60 inches, waists 35 inches to 54-1 ⁄ 2 inches, and hips 44 inches to 62 inches.

Fabrics:

This ensemble is for knits. The top has considerable gathering and a zipper in the side seam. It calls for a lightweight, springy knit such as jersey. For the skirt or pants, bottom-weight ponte di Roma is ideal as it will not cling. If you prefer matching pieces, choose a medium-weight knit to make the separates.

Style and Sewing Details:

This ensemble has a close-fitting, one-shoulder ruched top with an asymmetrical hemline and optional shoulder tie. It utilizes gathers to shape the bust, waist, and hips. The top’s left-side invisible zipper closure opens from the hemline to 2-3 ⁄ 8 inches from the underarm edge. The palazzo-style pants and slim-fitting pencil skirt are pull-on. The skirt has a 6-1 ⁄ 2-inch hemline slit in the left side seam. Both bottoms have a 4-inch-wide contoured yoke with a top edge that sits at the natural waistline.

• Even if your fabric passes the stretch test on the pattern envelope, the bottoms may not pull over the hips, partly due to the contoured yokes. A remedy is to add a side-seam invisible zipper.

• The pattern calls for straight stitching throughout. Instead, consider a tiny zigzag stitch (0.5 mm width by 2.5 mm length).

• Grade the yoke seam allowances to eliminate bulk and a ridge.

• Tissue-fit the top with the lining pattern pieces. If the neckline is too big, insert…

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