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Pattern Review: In the Folds Sawtell Dress 011

Threads #225, Spring 2024
Tested by Lois Atkins, Troutville, Virginia. Sewn by Margaret Ball, Thread Lightly Sewing, Ithaca, New York. In The Folds Sawtell Dress. Fabric: Cross-dyed linen, CuttingLineDesigns.com.

Chic and Simple Shift


Skill Level:

Intermediate skills are appropriate to complete this pattern. Precise stitching is required to create neat corners on the inset yoke and to sew the inset side seam pockets. The instructions include some industry methods that render a clean, professional-looking finish.

Size Range and Fitting:

This pattern is designed for a person 5 feet, 7 inches tall. There are two size ranges: A to J, drafted for B-cup busts, is for busts 29-7 ⁄ 8 inches to 51-5 ⁄ 8 inches, waists 24 inches to 45-5 ⁄ 8 inches, and hips 33 inches to 54-3 ⁄ 4 inches. Size range G to P, drafted for D-cup busts, is designed for busts 44-3 ⁄ 4 inches to 71-1 ⁄ 4 inches, waists 36-3 ⁄ 4 inches to 63-3 ⁄ 8 inches, and hips 45-7 ⁄ 8 inches to 72-1 ⁄ 2 inches. There is considerable ease at the waist and hips, in part due to front and back pleats. The ease is 3-7 ⁄ 8 inches at the bust, 12-3 ⁄ 8 inches at the waist, and 6-3 ⁄ 4 inches at the hips.


Select light- to medium-weight linen, linen blends, cotton, denim, and wool suiting.

Style and Sewing Details:

This versatile dress can shine at the workplace, and at casual and semicasual events. The boxy style ends just above the knee.

close up of Sawtell Dress• The dress has a V-shaped center front placket, 3 ⁄ 4-inch-deep pleats at the placket’s base, bust darts, side-seam inset pockets framed with a pocket shield, and a back yoke with a 1-1 ⁄ 2-inch-deep inverted pleat partially stitched for 3-1 ⁄ 2 inches.

• The armhole flange forming the capped sleeves is 1-3 ⁄ 8 inches wide at the shoulder seam and narrows to 1 ⁄ 2 inch wide at the underarm seam. A bias facing finishes the entire neckline, and the 1-1 ⁄ 2-inch-wide turned-up hem is machine-sewn.

• The sewing instructions are excellent, detailed, and comprehensive. They include tips for beginners sprinkled throughout. A glossary of sewing terms is…

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  1. crystaljean | | #1

    Because of this article, I purchased the pattern. Am looking forward to making the dress.

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