hi there,
I have been trying to figure out how to use your own personal measurements to make a sloper. I have 3 pattern making books and none of them tell you how to do it correctly. I tried the formula they gave me and I ended up having to alter it completely. It was so wrong. Can anyone give me some advice or point me in the right direction? thank you
Replies
Best pattern making books are by Natalie Bray.
Vogue and butterick also sell a fitting pattern ...........my collection in all sizes, is vogue 1000....check current catalogue.....you can use fitting notes that come with this to use as a basic pattern or sloper. I used to use these when I taught classes of students learning pattern cutting. And for pattern making. There is a trouser fitting pattern too.
Louise
I agree- start with a fitting pattern - life will be a whole lot easier. You will learn what you have to adjust for every future pattern you use. I always have to make adjustments for extra length in my torso, extra length for a full bust and a little extra length for long sleeves and long legs and extra width for wide shoulders. Once I learned this I can make any pattern work. and if it is really complicated I will make a "muslin" out of my fabric stash.
creating slopers from personal measurements
How do you decide what pattern size to start from? I know that as i have got (or gotten in US Speak) older I am broader across the back. As a result the idea of using a pattern based on a bust size is crazy and I would be better off making my own patterns. Any ideas?
My way
I use the bust measurements to determine pattern size because it will come closer to fitting in the shoulders, bust, across the back, and the bodice length thus there are fewer major adjustments to the pattern. It is easier for me to make adjustments in the skirt (hips/stomach) than the more intricate bodice.
I hesitate to say this, but it's meant in the kindest manner possible, so I'll forge ahead. I noticed you last two posts to the forum included rather terse references to us Americans. I hope they were made with a big grin on your face that didn't come through in the printed word. If so, I'm laughing with you. If not ---- well, that's where mentioning it in the kindest manner possible comes in.
I hope all or part of this was helpful. :)
With a tape measure using inches, measure from armhole to armhole across the front just a couple of inches below your neck line. 14 inches will be a size 14. For every half inch measurement up or down will be a whole size difference. (13 inches will be a size 10. ) Figure out what size this is for you and buy that size and make all alterations from this point. Using this method insures that the garment will hang properly from your shoulders and will fit around the neckline. This is one idea of how to find the correct size.
creating slopers from personal measurements
Dear Stillsuesew
Thanks for that concise answer. I intend trying this out once I get the "Holiday Season" out of the way. When I was young and foolish I didn't realize how easy I was to fit. Size 12 Vogue and add an inch or two to the hips and hey presto I didn't even have to try on while I sewed merrily away. Now I make something that is too big, then the next thing will be too small so now I have more less taken up patchwork! Anyway i am going not only going to use your suggestion I shall measure other things in my wardrobe (sorry closet) that are wearable and start the New Year with some good intentions.
Regards and thanks
Stillsewing
and to that other poster with my tongue very firmly in my cheek, can I wish you and yours a very Happy Christmas.
The "Holiday Season thing" hasn't hit us over here yet. And with it in my other cheek might I point out that, when I was a regular reader of the "board". it took great amount effort on my part to understand the language but I always enjoyed it. Despite great efforts on the part of many contributors I still don't know what a tote or a purse is!
Noun or Verb?
The very first thing that struck me was that definition you are searching for would depend upon whether you are using those two words as nouns or verbs. That said, I Googled them and there are some fine pictures of the American noun versions in the results. Perhaps that would help?
Since I am that "other poster", well, I don't know...... can you?
And yes all that was tongue in cheek, too. I enjoyed your post. ;)
pattern sizing
There is an excellent tutorial video in Nancys Notions to alter patterns to fit. It basically gives you reference points to pin and then slide the bootom or top opf your pattern to create a good fit. Also tells everything you need to know about fitting the armholes when you alter. Just thought I would pass this on. She tells you to get as pattern that fits well in the nbust also just as someone else mentioned on here. But if you already have a pattern she will tell you in the ntutorials how to adjust that also. Go to Nancys Notions and look for the video tutorials. Hope this helps!
Peg
pattern sizing
There is an excellent tutorial video in Nancys Notions to alter patterns to fit. It basically gives you reference points to pin and then slide the bootom or top opf your pattern to create a good fit. Also tells everything you need to know about fitting the armholes when you alter. Just thought I would pass this on. She tells you to get as pattern that fits well in the nbust also just as someone else mentioned on here. But if you already have a pattern she will tell you in the ntutorials how to adjust that also. Go to Nancys Notions and look for the video tutorials. Hope this helps!
Peg
please confirm if this is a sloper:
would this be a sloper?
Vogue Patterns 1004 Misses' Fitting Shell
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/patterns/sewingpatterns.pl?patternid=639
I browsed and can't figure out what a sloper is. If this isn't a sloper, is a sloper 3D?
Yes. That's a Sloper and to add
There's a book call How to make Sewing Patterns by Donald H. McCunn. It will show you how to take your own measurements and prepare slopers. I recommend a purchase of a small roll of architect paper. You can see through it. It takes erasures well and doesn't rip easily.
Amazon.com sells the book for under $25.00
Happy Designing.
Yes, that would be a basic sloper. I have also heard them called foundations and pattern blocks. A personal sloper is one created to your body. So you would start with the fitting shell and alter it until it fits you. Then make a tag board copy of the corrected pattern and use that to draft your patterns.
Chris
Yes use this to make your sloper or basic blocks
a sloper or basic pattern/block is just a a pattern created to measurements that you can use to design fashion patterns. You can draft one to your own measurements but I've always found it quicker, and because there is less room for error, more reliable to use these vogue basic fitting patterns.
I taught fashion design for many years and found the Vogue pattern worked much better than the drafting from measurements method
after finding your perfect fit, you can use these basic blocks/slopers to design any pattern.
Are there such things as slopers for men? Are they available from regular commercial sources that can be adapted? There is so very little in the way of patterns for men. What is the problem, don't men wear clothes from home sewists eithe women or men?
I don't think there is a commerial fitting pattern which you can use as a sloper or basic block for men.
Your options are to draft it yourself,......... the standard text book is by winifred Aldich.
Or find a simple commercial patterns, alter it to fit you, then use these as slopers or basic blocks.
Alternatively a little pattern cutting skills can go a long way in adapting a commercial pattern.
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