Replies

1. 
   amm | Dec 16, 2010 10:51am | #1

   Draped collar

   Hi Loralyn,

   I was just asked to assist you.  The grid in the illustration is simply a guide to help you determine YOUR measurements.

   First measure your back and decide how long you want the collar to be. If you look at the diagram on page 65, you'll see that the center back is cut on the bias. The collar on page 65 ends an inch or two above the waist in the back. Draw the center back line on your pattern that length. It's easier if you use gridded paper to make your pattern. Once the diagonal line is drawn,  measure from the bottom to the top on the straight grain. In our example, the straight grain measurement is 9 squares. The top of the pattern is 7 squares which means there is a 9 to 7 ratio of the right side of the pattern to the top of the pattern. 7 divided by 9=0.778. So if YOUR top to bottom length is 14 squares (it doesn't matter how big each square is, this math will be done using the squares), multiply 14 times 0.78 to determine how long the upper line of the pattern should be (7 on the illustration). It will be 10.89 squares long. Once you have the 10.89 and the 14, just connect the 2 points at the bottom of the pattern piece (from the bottom end of the diagonal to the bottom end of the right side) to finish the pattern.

   Hand baste the pleat lines and try it on . Space the pleat lines about 1" down from the top of the center back and about 1" apart. Adjust if needed. Baste the center front line approximatley 4" long and try on again. Adjust as necessary.

   I recommend making a muslin out of inexpensive fabic to make adjustments. If you're having trouble understanding exactly what's happening, make a small unlined version in half size.

   I hope this helps.

   April Mohr

   April Mohr