I recently made my first tailored garment, a coat (Burda 10/99 pattern) of a heavy wool (14 oz) cavalry twill, mainly following the instructions from the Singer tailoring book. The fabric is fairly dense, although it did hold a crease with steam pressing. It was pre-shrunk with steam and hot water.
Although overall I was pleased with the results, the sleeve caps were not all that they could be. Even after much gathering and steaming, they were still not perfectly smooth, but instead have a faint “gather” look. Also, after being set in, there is not a smooth line from shoulder to sleeve, but a small “bump” of maybe 1/16″ at the top of the sleeve.
What can I do in my next coat project to correct this? Fiddling with sleeve heads and shoulder pads only helped the problem a little bit, so it seems to stem from the initial easing and setting in.