Replies

1. 
   liselaure | Jun 12, 2007 08:16pm | #1

   That was probably A New Fit from the Old World by Sandra Betzina in Threads #23, page 58.

   A great book about the same topic is "European Cut" by Elisabeth Allemong. You can visit her website at http://www.vestisbooks.com.

   Lise-Laure

   
   

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   Edited 6/12/2007 1:18 pm by LiseLaure

1. 
   JanF | Jun 12, 2007 09:05pm | #2

   I use a book for school - dont tell anyone!!
   see attachment for close fitting bodice block(sloper)

   
1. 
   liselaure | Jun 12, 2007 10:46pm | #3

   Hello JanF,<!----><!----><!---->

   At first, don't fear: I won't tell anyone.<!----><!---->

   And thank you! I love to discover new pattern drafting methods. Here is my first thoughts regarding the one you scanned for us. Close-fitted doesn't mean the same for everyone. Personally, I don't consider 4 inches of bust ease as such, but that's not so important. When you don't use a standard set of measurements to draft this block, but someone's measurements instead, how do you know what bust dart width to use? A lot of "steps" in this draft are based on fixed measurements. For instance, the bust point is marked 1 inch below the armhole line. Or it's assumed that with 4 inches of bust ease you will automatically have 2 inches of hip ease, which works only if you bust circumference is 2 inches smaller than your hip one (personally I am not). It doesn't seem very personalized. Do you nevertheless get good results with this method?<!----><!---->

   I must say that I am a fan of Elisabeth Allemong. Her slopers are based almost only on personal measurements and on very few fixed measurements. If you have taken the former properly, you get a muslin that fits you like a second skin. And, last but not least, her pants draft is the best I have ever tried (I've wrote about it and posted pictures under another thread).

   Lise-Laure

   P.S. I have tried to attach pictures of my mother in her Allemong muslin (first trial - no alteration made yet) but it didn't work. Something must have been changed in my computer settings but I have not idea what.

1. 
   JanF | Jun 14, 2007 01:28pm | #4

   Hi - ive attached another scan - gosh the PC amongst u might be horrified - not the done thing i'm sure - but in a few days it will be off the board!
   I do blocks with personal measurements as per scan - but to go into further adjusting for non standard shapes stuff might be pushing it! Needless to say some pupils need to adjust the 1st. toille after fitting - as I do for my own - no-one's perfect in shape, size or accuracy!
   Might be of interest to u
   Taken from Winifred Aldrich - metric pattern cutting - used in a lot of colleges over here.
   Jan

   
1. 
   liselaure | Jun 14, 2007 10:37pm | #5

   Hello JanF,

   Thank you. Yes, that was interesting. I now understand better how this method works. I've heard several times - and always positively - about this book, but I haven't dared to add it to my collection yet.

   Lise-Laure

2. 
   JanF | Jun 15, 2007 11:32am | #6

   Youre welcome! It is an easy book to follow with diagrams for every suggested style change - I dont have time to use it fully at school though because pattern drafting isn't actually on the syllabus - as long as pupils don't just make something from a standard pattern without making some alterations, they can get by without knowing fully how to do it. In fact a lot of girls find it easier to fit onto a body, once they know the basics of keeping straight grain etc.
   I might add that in the timescale they have - they need a lot of teacher input at the start!
   Keep sewing!
   Jan