Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Tiktok Icon YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon

Conversational Threads

European fit

merrymary | Posted in Talk With Us on

I seem to remember an article on the difference between the European or continental garments and U.S. patterns.  The shoulders fit differently, as well as the crotch seam on trousers, etc. I couldn’t find it in the index.  Did Threads do a piece on this topic, or did I see it elsewhere?

Replies

  1. liselaure | | #1

    That was probably A New Fit from the Old World by Sandra Betzina in Threads #23, page 58.

    A great book about the same topic is "European Cut" by Elisabeth Allemong. You can visit her website at http://www.vestisbooks.com.

    Lise-Laure



    Edited 6/12/2007 1:18 pm by LiseLaure

    1. JanF | | #2

      I use a book for school - dont tell anyone!!
      see attachment for close fitting bodice block(sloper)

      1. liselaure | | #3

        Hello JanF,<!----><!----><!---->

        At first, don't fear: I won't tell anyone.<!----><!---->

        And thank you! I love to discover new pattern drafting methods. Here is my first thoughts regarding the one you scanned for us. Close-fitted doesn't mean the same for everyone. Personally, I don't consider 4 inches of bust ease as such, but that's not so important. When you don't use a standard set of measurements to draft this block, but someone's measurements instead, how do you know what bust dart width to use? A lot of "steps" in this draft are based on fixed measurements. For instance, the bust point is marked 1 inch below the armhole line. Or it's assumed that with 4 inches of bust ease you will automatically have 2 inches of hip ease, which works only if you bust circumference is 2 inches smaller than your hip one (personally I am not). It doesn't seem very personalized. Do you nevertheless get good results with this method?<!----><!---->

        I must say that I am a fan of Elisabeth Allemong. Her slopers are based almost only on personal measurements and on very few fixed measurements. If you have taken the former properly, you get a muslin that fits you like a second skin. And, last but not least, her pants draft is the best I have ever tried (I've wrote about it and posted pictures under another thread).

        Lise-Laure

        P.S. I have tried to attach pictures of my mother in her Allemong muslin (first trial - no alteration made yet) but it didn't work. Something must have been changed in my computer settings but I have not idea what.

        1. JanF | | #4

          Hi - ive attached another scan - gosh the PC amongst u might be horrified - not the done thing i'm sure - but in a few days it will be off the board!
          I do blocks with personal measurements as per scan - but to go into further adjusting for non standard shapes stuff might be pushing it! Needless to say some pupils need to adjust the 1st. toille after fitting - as I do for my own - no-one's perfect in shape, size or accuracy!
          Might be of interest to u
          Taken from Winifred Aldrich - metric pattern cutting - used in a lot of colleges over here.
          Jan

          1. liselaure | | #5

            Hello JanF,

            Thank you. Yes, that was interesting. I now understand better how this method works. I've heard several times - and always positively - about this book, but I haven't dared to add it to my collection yet.

            Lise-Laure

          2. JanF | | #6

            Youre welcome! It is an easy book to follow with diagrams for every suggested style change - I dont have time to use it fully at school though because pattern drafting isn't actually on the syllabus - as long as pupils don't just make something from a standard pattern without making some alterations, they can get by without knowing fully how to do it. In fact a lot of girls find it easier to fit onto a body, once they know the basics of keeping straight grain etc.
            I might add that in the timescale they have - they need a lot of teacher input at the start!
            Keep sewing!
            Jan

This post is archived.

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Conversational Threads

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Highlights

Shop the Store

View All
View More