Help me find patterns that fit please.
Michelle_Wardlow | Posted in Patterns on
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I am fairly new to sewing but have tried to make several outfits without much success. I am always disappointed in the fit. I have tried to alter patterns but find it doesn’t seem to work for me. If they are too small I add to them and then I end up with an outfit too big. I have even read a pattern altering book. I think maybe I am so new to sewing that it makes it even more difficult. I am full figured and short (5 ft 2 inches). My measurements are 47- 40- 46. Please keep in mind I am not an experienced sewer so I would have trouble with a pattern that requires a lot of skill. I would greatly appreciate any help, thank you.
Replies
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Iron your patterns onto iron on vilene. Then pin the patterns pieces together and try them on and make adjustments. Don't expect a perfect garment immediately. Couturiers will make several samples before they achieve the look and fit they want. If you persist and keep records you will achieve your goal.
I am sure that you do not find the clothes you want in ready to wear given the measurements you gave.
There are many independent pattern companies that publish patterns that look great without lots of fitting required
*Michelle, the problems you are experiencing are very common and they are due to the fact that at amercian pattern companies (Vogue, Butterick, etc.), the larger sizes are graded up from standard (small) sizes. As a result, large sizes end up with unrealistically wide necklines, shoulders and thighs, while maintaining a bustline that is often not deep enough. But it is still possible to sew clothes that will fit your body.Sandra Betzina has created a line of Vogue patterns that are sized differently: the medium range is sized for a C cup and the larger for a D cup. She also took into account the fact that women have tummies, high hips and rounded backs. Burda plus-sized patterns are drafted for a D cup... the fit is said to be far superior to other patterns. Of course, you will have to alter them for your short stature.Another good choice would be to buy specialty patterns, drafted from a plus-size or petite-plus model. Check out Coni's patterns at http://www.fashionpatterns.com, Sewgrand patterns at http://www.sewgrand.com and Petite Plus at this great site: Full & Sassy Pattern boutique http://www.fullfab.com Another good resource is Unique patterns (at http://www.uniquepatterns.com) where you send in your complete measurements and they draft a pattern that will fit you. You can even have some Butterick patterns drafted to your own measurements.No affiliation to any of these. If you want to sew from the American pattern companies (the "big four"), you'll have to use a size that will fit your frame (upper chest, neck and shoulders) and alter the rest to fit your "fluff". A bust cup alteration is probably inevitable. To measure for your frame, put the tape measure around your upper chest, above the bust and below the armpits, and hold it very tight. This is your upper bust measurement. Use it instead of the bust measurement when chosing your pattern and you'll find that the pattern will fit much better on the top part of the body, the hardest part to alter.Good luck !Evita
*I have been sewing for over 30 years. The very best jacket pattern for full busted figure is Butterick #6356. Quite my accident,a sewing friend made this jacket and it did not fit her. She could not figure out why. She was a small slender framed person. The pattern for unknown reasons is difinitly for a full busted person.
*Michelle Dear,I have had my own business for 12 years now!( I live in NJ so if you are visiting maybe I can help) I just found patterns from MCcalls called " FIT FOR YOU " I was amaized to find step by step instructions on fitting the pattern to your measurements.I believe these patterns are a must in your sewing room.Good Luck !!Therese
*Your measurements are very close to mine (including the lack of height)... I have found the Burda Plus Size between size 20 and 22 to be the best fit. I did make a Burda T-shirt to the bust size on one pattern... like a size 24, and then found it fit like a sack... I had to take it in on the sides to a size 20 (I made a muslin of another Burda Plus Size 20 and it fit nicely... muslins are test makings of patterns out of inexpensive fabric). (what REALLY didn't help was that the fabric pattern included red blobs... I managed to place them exactly on the ends of each bust dart.. AAAAAAAARGH. Just a word of warning, watch out what the pattern of the fabric is and be wary of where the end of the bust dart lands!)
*i on the ends of each bust dart.. AAAAAAAARGHthanks for they chuckle! :-D
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