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Japanese clothing design enthusiasts…

K.Kelly | Posted in The Archives on

In my previous question about Vogue individualist patterns ,I was really looking for the “mother lode” of information on the deconstructed clothing movement and its influences on American Wearable Art. The Vogue Individualist patterns were the major commercial source other than Folkwear patterns that I was able to access. I am rabid to have responses! If anyone still has these patterns and other sources (pattern wise and bibliographical)please do share with me. If you haven’t read my first message (i.e. Vogue Individualist patterns) please do so. Thanks.


  1. Marty_Christopherson | | #1

    Let me kind of fumble around here and see if I can get you started.

    It is my understanding that The Sewing Workshop Collection patterns are all Miyake takeoffs, used with, I have heard, permission. The Miyake influence is definately there, the permission part I can't vouch for.

    Most of the smaller pattern companies that are specializing in womens clothing Vs quilts turned to clothing; Park Bench, the Ericson's Design and Sew and Revisions,CNT Pattern Company, Nancy Mirman (sp?)Paw Prints etc., etc., etc., are essentially turning out blank canvases for wearable art. Design and Sew has been around for many years but I doubt that any of the others can lay claim to being "pre-Miyake."

    On one of the mailing lists I am on, someone put out a call from Vogue for old Miyake patterns. Seems they don't keep copies and they are planning on reissueing. I thought that spoke volumes about not only the deconstructed clothing movement but about the size of the market the small pattern companies are tapping.

    I have contacted Michelle Lee of "Patterns from the Past" about Miyake patterns. She had a few and I did buy one from her. The price, however, was pretty stiff. And I don't think she ever shows them on her site. She might be worth an e-mail in your quest.

    A Centennial observation: we came into this century with Worth and all of the structure and strictures one could possibly impose on the female human body. By the twenties we had moved into the lovely, fluid and relatively unstructured designs of Vionnet and Chanel. Things waffled through the two wars until the late forties when Dior hit us with the ever so structured "new look" and women were back to not breathing again. Although American sportswear designers weren't quite buying it. In the '60's the hippies got even and every since fashion has waffled between streetwear and au couture, and women are supposed to be thin to the point of emaciation. In the last decade or so Couture got silly and Miyake seems to have spawned a deconstruced clothing underground.

    I can hardly wait to see what happens next! Although, we are surely in for a round of structure.

    Hope this helps getting posts started!

    Marty in Seattle

    1. K.Kelly | | #2

      *First, let me thank you for your response. Vogue itself had told me that there were many Miyake Enthusiasts in the Northwest, and that many of their discontinued patterns had been purchased by folks in that area. I am fascinated by the mailing list you refered to in you message. Could it be true that Vogue really does plan to reissue Miyake's patterns? How amazing! When ,When? I don't know if I can wait that long! How does one contact Michelle Lee? Refering to your comments on the designers of the early twentieth century, there seemed to have been a decided shift around the time of the Russian Revolution with the infusion of the designs from the Ballet Russe. Many of Leon Bakst's drawings harked back to the "Romantic East" with volumes of fabric abounding .I found the reissuing of the Poiret " cocoon coat" by Folkwear decidedly contemporary.

      1. P_Kee | | #3

        *The Sewing Workshop patterns are definitely Miyake inspired. I was under the impression that they were copied without permission. The Sewing Workshop was too small to go after.That said, I love Miyake. All the Vogue patterns fit me with minor adjustments. I just haven't found the right place to where the outfits. The long shirtdress with an uneven hem, I made up in flannel to use as a nightshirt!

        1. K.Kelly | | #4

          *How far back does you stash of Miyake patterns go? Do you look at http://www.firstview.com to see exactly how Miyake interprets the originals or do you just usually do your own thing? I can't wait to see if Vogue will ever get Y.Yamamoto to design for them. His Fall line was breathtaking! I have an entire list of Miyake patterns that I am waiting to either acquire or get some kind soul to copy for me. Let me know what you have and I will share what I have. Maybe we both might have something the other hasn't seen or gotten.

          1. Marty_Christopherson | | #5

            *Kelly -the URL for Michelle Lee's site is -http://www.oldpatterns.com/The sewing list I read the post about Vogue/Miyake on was probably SewCouture, although I believe that was before I cut back on my lists so it could have been any number of others. That particular list is very "on topic" and has been immensely valuable to me. It and many other good lists can be found on Quiltropolis -http://www.quiltropolis.com/Yes, I agree the Ballet Russe was responsible for some "cross pollination" of design from that era. I think, that Coco Chanel did the costumes for at least one of their productions.There are some wonderful sketches of some of their costumes at - http://www.bantaba.net/gallery/Although if anyone has a better site for their costumes I would appreciate them sending me an e-mail with the URL.And Butler University has photos of part of their scenery collection on line at -http://www.butler.edu/dance/br_scenery.htmlEveryone have a great day!Marty in Seattle

          2. Diane | | #6

            *I too have read that Vogue plans to reissue Miyake patterns but I have no details. I just made Paw Prints Samurai shirt which is a pretty much line-for-line copy of an old Miyake (Vogue 1664). They do a regular underarm sleeve seam while Miyake's was down the back of the arm. The Paw Prints pattern includes a pair of pull-on pants but not the jacket or the pants in the original pattern. It is very hard to see the detail of this shirt in the busy prints they have used for their cover illustration. Don't let that put you off--check out the line drawing on the back. The sizing on this shirt is very large, even the XS isn't very small.I will try to research the possibility of Vogue bringing back some of these great patterns and I'll keep watching this topic for news.

          3. K.Kelly | | #7

            *Thank you. I thought the Samurai pattern by Paw Prints looked familiar but didn't know why. I wonder if Vogue will be reissuing the patterns as they originally were created or will they possibly create a new pattern format with the best of the blouses, best jackets, etc? I Don't know how these things are done, but I am certainly ready for them!

          4. Ann_Owen | | #8

            *I thought I will join the discussion.There are 65 Issey Miyake patterns by Vogue.There are line drawing floating around depicting most of them.The fascination for me is the consruction details and the fact that the designs do not really date,they are so different that they always look innovative.I have made quite a few of the patterns.For me they fall into categories.Suits (me)Casual(not me)Coats (depends)I have found the skirts really far out ,even better than the images depicted by Vogue.#1854 have made thrice in linen,silk matka and boucle.#2332 is very nice,the back of the skirt is awesome,you cant make that out except you have seen it made.I can go with madelist.There is a message board for IM fans on AOL which is not really active now,they used to have a pattern exchange so people can swap sz or copies.You could consider setting up a separate IM board.

          5. Diane | | #9

            *Bad news. I have just heard that Vogue has decided not to redo Miyake patterns. I think they are really missing the boat on this one--those patterns are newer looking than much of what Vogue is doing now. I keep remaking my old ones because the designs are timeless. I just wish that I had bought them all.

          6. K.Kelly | | #10

            *That's really a shame! I just told a friend not to despair that reruns were on the way! Well I guess the next best thing to having bought them is to find out who did and share the wealth. Which patterns do you have? I have a number of them and thanks to a friend I have the patterns covers of a number of others I am looking for madly!We just have to find some way of rectifying this dirth of Miyake patterns.

          7. K.Kelly | | #11

            *You are kidding! Are there that many already! How can one get the line drawings of all of the patterns in existence? I am really intrigued by the AOL site you mentioned . Is it really all but defunct? I would love to swap or make copies! I am tempted to do just as you have mentioned.Here is a list of the patterns ( or parts there of) I have been hankering to have to add to my collection and I have been lusting after some of them since my college days when I had NO MONEY TO BUY THEM! Vogue2757 blouse A&B 1854 jacket and skirt1946 jacket and shirt 1893 jacket and bodysuit1736 jacket and top 1618 top A&B,skirt,pants 2352 jacket and pants 1381 top a and skirt 1664 jacket 1869 jacket1599 jacket,top,skirt 1257 jacket,top,pants1258 jacket,top,skirt 1256 dress2486 blouse A&B, skirt 2522 blouse,vest b,pants1782 jacket.top.skirt 2720 topThe patterns I have are:2979,2332,2978,1456,1736,2109,1783,2059,2038,18361476,1328,2736,2922,1729,2010,1693,2088,2127,14811563 (there are more but they are not in front of me now) So you see even with the twenty odd I have listed that are in my possession, I have not seen or been privy to at least 40+ patterns! Help!

          8. Ann_Owen | | #12

            *Hi,there are really 65 patterns inc one done by Butterick.If you are interested I have scanned pics of all patterns except 2.You can email me privately.

          9. K.Kelly | | #13

            *I would love to do just that.Let me know how. I fear I am still rather challenged as far as the web is concerned. If you need my e-mail address, I can do that also. Just let me know how I can e-mail you privately. Thanks, Ann.

          10. Ann_Owen | | #14

            *Found this webpage.Dont know if it will usefulhttp://www.insidetheweb.com/mbs.cgi/mb425629

          11. Sue_Whelan | | #15

            *Diane, Have you been in touch with Vogue directly? I'd heard the rumour that the IM patterns were going to be reissued about six months ago. How depressing if it isn't true. How about we all deluge Butterick with requests for IM's patterns? Maybe if we get enough posts, they will reconsider. We could ask the other sewing lists to participate. There is strength in numbers.

          12. K.Kelly | | #16

            *I think that would be a wonderful idea! How should we get started?

          13. K.Kelly | | #17

            *Thank you, Ann for the lead. I have just cast my bread upon the waters, so to speak. I would still like to get those line drawings from you though. My e-mail address is: [email protected] . If you email me then I wil be able to email you right back about the drawings. Thanks again.

          14. Nancy_in_NM | | #18

            *Wow, what a great thread. The Miyake/Miyake inspired mailing list sounds like a wonderful idea. However, I'm not on AOL, so that one wouldn't work. Anybody game for starting one?

          15. Diane | | #19

            *I have not been in contact with Vogue, but Sandra Betzina says that they have given up on the idea. I would be happy to join a campaign to urge them to change their minds on this one. I'll check the Vogue site and see if they have an email "suggestion box." We could all use that. Although they are so slow in updating their site they might not check their email either. I'll get back to you about it.

          16. Diane | | #20

            *I just checked the Vogue website, http://www.voguepatterns.com, and they have a comments section with email that goes to their customer service department. I sent an email letting them know how much I would love to have classic Miyakes back again and I encourage all of you to do the same. It can't hurt. As I said, they still feature their Jan/Feb magazine on the site so they are not exactly up-to-date. Let's hope they treat the email in a more timely way.

          17. Diane | | #21

            *Well, Vogue seems to be out to lunch in the website department--I just had my email returned as undeliverable. I will try to research a usable address for Vogue and get back to you. If anyone knows of an address that works please let us know. I tried "[email protected]" and that doesn't work.

          18. Diane | | #22

            *Last night I sent an email to the consumer services address on the Butterick web site and it has not been returned. It may be that they are putting all their energies into that site--it seemed much more current than the Vogue one. So let's start an email campaign and see if we can influence Vogue on the Miyake issue. The address is http://www.butterick.com.

          19. Marion_ | | #23

            *I've been reading all these messages about the Miyake designs and have never even seen one. Is there someplace on the web that has pictures or drawings of some of them? If not, could someone please describe one or two of them. They really must be special judging from all the enthusiam in this list and I would love to have some idea of what they look like.

          20. K.Kelly | | #24

            *Funny that you would ask that question! As far as the Vintage Miyake patterns we are discusing are concerned that might take some scanning, but there are sources to see his handiwork. For the most contemporary Miyake ready to wear and couture go to http://www.firstview.com and see at least 5 or 6 seasons of clothing. For patterns, thought they are not in their original form , go to http://www.sewingworkshop.com and look at their patterns many of them are reconstituted Miyake. These particular items are things that were made into patterns. Because Miyake does pull some of his patterns from his real line some times they may have been copies of ready to wear. They are the following:The Origami BlouseThe Bamboo TopThe Nikko JacketThe Cascade dressThe Kinenbi PantsThe Tea garden TThe Hong Kong VestThe Cowl Top

          21. k._kelly | | #25

            *I just had an idea... Now, it may not work but perhaps while we are waitng or in case the day never arrives when Vogue or Butterick will reissue the patterns...maybe we could create a listing of who has what and in what sizes and whether or not they would be willing to lend the patterns for copying or copy for others for whatever it may cost them? What do you think, ladies? I don't think it could hurt. That way we could all get what we are looking for... Miyake!

          22. Judy_Beaton | | #26

            *K. Kelly that sounds good to me. But then again I have the most to gain since I have the fewest Miyake patterns but covet them all!

          23. K.Kelly | | #27

            *(Message to Ann Owen)In your first comment, Ann, you mentioned that you had made 1854 three times.Was it difficult? Did you make just the jacket or did you make the jacket and the pants one time and the jacket and skirt another time? How did you wear them I can imagine that pattern being very formal. With 2332, did you make the blouse also? Was there any difficulty in making it? Is the skirt on that pattern open in the front? I have it but haven't had the nerve to try it yet. I am on a charcoal grey jag and have purchased some washable crepe that I think would look great made up in the pants-jumper. Have you tried it yet? You'll have to forgive my overzealous nature,but I am a woman obsessed! Now that you have said you tried 1854 three times, I know I must have it! I found the sites you mentioned, but the Miyake site doesn't seem to have much going on.

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