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Lois Ericson #318 Jackets Required

ljb2115 | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Has anyone constructed this pattern?  I have been trying for two years to get the pattern to match at seamlines, etc.  I have taken about 3.5″ out of the sleeve pattern, on and on.  Is this a “wadder” or do I continue to try to make it fit?  I have some smashing red and black paisley wool crepe to had hoped to use, but if it gives me any more trouble, I am going to pitch the pattern and use my TNT (tried and true) jacket pattern.  View A is my problem.  I haven’t had the courage to try the others. Is this a problem with self-drafted independent patterns?  I have had no problems with other independent patterns.

I am not even to the muslin stage, just working with the pattern.  Let me know.



  1. sewslow67 | | #1

    I'm not sure what you mean when you say you've taken 3.5" out of the sleeve pattern; and then mention trying to get it to match at the side seams.  If you could you please elaborate as to what you mean, I might be able to help.

    I've made a lot of Lois' patterns and have found that they go together easily and smoothly.  I don't have #318 here with me at the moment as it is down in my home in the states (probably because I didn't bring all the patterns that I've already made, as I'm in a "make something new and different" mode).

    1. ljb2115 | | #2

      I eliminated a scant three inches from the main part of the sleeve pattern.  The total sleeve hem would measure more than thirteen inches at the wrist if I had not eliminated some of the excess.  I am finding that the band around the high hip is not even close to fitting.  I think I will just send the pattern to "pattern heaven" and start anew.   This is the first I have used Lois' patterns, although I have more waiting.  I think in essence these are too "arty" for me. 

      If I can  muster up the courage, I may try to fit the longer version and see what happens.  I think it may be the hip band which is driving me nuts.  Thanks for your help.

      1. sewslow67 | | #4

        Are you using the size that you normally use in the large pattern companies patterns?  If so, that may be the problem.  With her patterns, (and I've made a lot of them) I normally have to go down at least one size and frequently go down two sizes. 

        Also, did you do a flat pattern measurement before cutting the pattern out to check for ease?  She does add quite a lot of design ease too, so again, going down a size or two would help.

        1. ljb2115 | | #7

          Thanks for all of the responses.  I have decided to send the pattern to "Pattern Heaven" and re-work a TNT pattern which has the same basic lines. 

    2. ljb2115 | | #3

      More replies:  I had no problen getting the sleeve to fit the armsceye.  I eliminated most of the ease, which for a dropped shoulder w/shirt-type sleeve, would have been too much.  Remember, I want to make this from wool crepe, which will ease incredibly well.  I am having trouble with the lower hip band.  It doesn't match anything. I know what I'm doing - the pattern is just a little off, and I am just a little curious.

  2. woodruff | | #5

    Two years is a mighty long time to fight with a pattern. Have you tried contacting Ms. Ericson herself?

    Here's her contact info:

    Lois Ericson
    2930 Sage Sparrow Cir.
    Reno, NV 89509
    775- 828-2485
    [email protected]

    1. sewslow67 | | #6

      Contacting her is a really good idea.  I'm sure she would be helpful.  After all, sometimes patterns are "misprints", just like anything printed, i.e. books, etc.   I got to know here years ago, and she always responds to questions, comments, etc.  She is not only a very talented designer, she is a gracious lady.  Lovely in every respect.

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