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Self-Lined Front

dregan | Posted in General Sewing Info on

This is my first post to this site, although I have been getting the Threads mag. for about a year.  I recently returned to sewing after about 27 yrs.(4-H in school), and have many questions. In the Thread mag.,May/03, there is an article “Neckline Finishes for Knits”-Self-Lined Front.  I was wondering if this would work with a cotton/lycra material or even just plain cottons, or won’t it lay right?  Thanks for any help you can give me.


Could someone help me on this one?  I have a pale green cotton shirt that is really pretty sheer and thought could try this instead lining it? I would really appreciate any feedback.


Edited 5/30/2003 11:58:13 AM ET by Deb


  1. reddragonfly | | #1

    On the pale green shirt you might use a lining that matches your skin tone instead of a self lining.  That way it will not look so different in the front and back.  You can maintain the illusion of sheerness without the "exposure". 

    1. dregan | | #2

      Thank you for the suggestion, and have read about that before.  I really haven't actually lined anything before.  I just thought this way looked so simple, although it was talking about knits.  It showed putting right side to right, trimming and turnning and neckline was done.  Could I line by using this method for both back and front, bu using two pieces cut from  same pattern piece, like underlining, is it called? Would it be better if sewed two fabric pieces together first?  What about turn of cloth? I wish I had more experience to make things easier. Actually, I'm making a seersucker plaid shorts to go with the pale green cotton shirt. The seersucker is very, very stretchy and even thought of using it for going around neckline, but didn't know how much of a ratio I would use, trim to neckline?  Now I'm hear asking a zillion questions.  Any help is appreciated.


      1. reddragonfly | | #3

             You could certainly use the same basic method no matter what material you chose to line with.  As far as turn of cloth, if you want to be real picky you could make the lining about an 1/8th of an inch smaller than the shirt so it won't show at the edges.  Also, don't forget to understich the lining as far as possible so it won't roll to the outside.  That's where you stitch the seam allowance to the lining.  It won't be possible to stitch the whole thing together due to corners and such but stitching it together as much as possible (after trimming and clipping) makes a very neat end product.  Good luck!

        1. dregan | | #4

          Thanks a lot for the info. I hadn't thought about edgestitching when lining like you do with facings, but certainly makes sense. Now, I'm thinking I may not even line this top, and make it more like a tank top. Think I need to invest in a nude colored camisole for lighter weight fabric tops! Ha! I believe in making things easy! Of course, then I'd probably start to hotflash!


          1. SewingSue | | #5

            Deb, I have interlined lightweight fabric like that and it works out very well. When I am doing a sleeveless top, I sew them right side together at the neckline, clip well, turn right side out and understitch to the underlining side. I usually do narrow bias binding for the armsyches. Turning neatly to the underlining side. If I am in a fussy mood, I hand stitch the bias binding to the underlining. If I am not in a fussy mood, I simply stitch in place. I hem the two layers separate so they hang nice. Happy sewing. Sue

          2. dregan | | #6

            Thank you so much for the information.  I printed it off for future use and sounds like a very easy way to take care of the problem.  I just started cutting on the fabric in a princess style sleeveless button-down front shirt. It is a new Unique pattern made to my measurements that I haven't tried yet. Think I'm just being a little dowdy in worrying about the show through. I've seen many sheer blouses and this is just a lightweight aqua cotton/lycra with some see through.  I think it'll be okay without lining. Sometimes I think too much.

          3. SewingSue | | #7

            Deb, I fully understand. I work in a hospital and tend to dress very conservative so can appreciate where you are coming from. I grew up in the 70s and never thought conservative would be a word I used about myself. But somehow in the environment of the hospital to me conservative dress seems appropriate (another word I never thought I'd use about myself). Happy sewing. I finally made the plunge into Pattern Master Boutique and Curves. I have been using them for a few months and love them. Still doing a little tweaking but compared with conventional patterns they are sooooooo much better. Happy sewing. Sue

          4. dregan | | #8

            Thanks for responding-sound a lot alike. I'm 49, and also grew up in the 70's and never thought conservative dress of any kind would pertain to me. My daughter has been much more conservative in her dress than I was, thank God, and started college this year. Couldn't believe when her sorority sisters got her to buy a peasant blouse!! I, too, worked in a hospital for 25 yrs., until disability from back made me quit.  Usually wore uniforms or smocks, but in past management positions, I, too, had to dress conservatively. Now, I'm just a little too fat, and flat chested to do anything else!  Ha!  By curves, did you mean the curves for women to exercise and lose weight or was that a pattern line?  I'm from the U.S.  I started using a Unique pattern company, but as they are drafted to your measurements and in Canada, it takes forever and a day to get a pattern!  They do fit , though, even the pants!


          5. SewingSue | | #9

            Deb, both Pattern Master Boutique and Curves are computer software programs for creating your own patterns. Wild Ginger developed both of them and they have several more options available. Very good intuitive software. You need a buddy to take the measurements and have to follow their directions to the letter. They have demo programs you can download if you're interested go to (

            I won an eBay auction from someone in Canada and it took forever to arrive. Guess the mail system is completely different. Happy sewing. Sue

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