Need instructions on the following techniques:
How to make a waistband with an elasticized back.
How to make a waistband with an elasticized sides.
How to add walking ease to a straight and wrap skirt.
How to taper correctly the side seams of a straight skirt.
Many thanks for any help.
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Replies
Sandra Betzina's book Power Sewing has most of what you want.
Threads book on pants has the rest I think.
Nancy
Well the back and the sides are really the same technique just in different spots.You make up your pants front and back and make any fit adjustments to the side seams and the length of the crotch seam . You can use a tie around the waist to ascertain you waist line and then trim the top so that you have a seam allowance above the tie.Next construct the waistband. I use a length of the fabric double the width of you finished waist band plus 2 seam allowances.Inter face the fronts where you will want to place buttons etc.Sew the interfaced long side to the top of you pants .Press the seam up into the waistband and then fold it over. press again sew up the ends in the usual manner and create the underlap( I usually have this an inch and half long) and finish the front outer edge flush with the top of the fly .Next serge the other long side of the band and turn under the seam allowwnce on either side of the front and and pin in place . Use elastic in two channels which you can stitch either side of the side seam or across the back of the pants band and thread elastic through attaching at one end with pins and pulling it up to the required length OR use one wider piece which i attach at one side seam and stretch to the desired degree to the other side seam.I the stitch through the waist band and the elastic from the top of the waistband down to the waist band seam and into the ditch of the side seams.You can the stitch the waist band itself down by stitching in the ditch from the right side after having tacked it .The turned under bits at the front center are stitched either by hand or machine .I always use a trouser hook near the center front and a button stitched onto the back of the band and a buttonhole in the underlap. This means that there is less stress on both fastenings and it is alot more durable.
Hope that helps . Its useful to have a good look at ready mades as there are actually alot of different ways to do this bur you need to find the way that fits your body best.
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