Replies

1. 
   ShannonG4d | Aug 28, 2005 02:58pm | #1

   I have two of these types of fabric in mind; one is a "woven" fabric, which is generally pretty stable.  Another is a knit, sometimes called "velvet suede".  The sewing techniques are similar for both fabrics, with the exception being the choice of machine needles.

   Use a medium to large machine needle for the "woven" version.  Start with a "denim" needle, size 14/90 or larger.  For the knit version, use a slightly smaller needle (11/75) as the fabric isn't quite as firm as the woven.

   These fabrics are successfully used in patterns with minimal seaming. Coats, jackets, any outerwear patterns, vests, even bathrobes (from the knit) are good choices.  Eliminate facings, linings, plackets, and button bands, opting instead for simple, unfussy designs.  Bindings are a good substitute for facings, and turn-back cuffs are a better option than stitched cuffs.

   I like to use both sides of the fabric in this manner: stitch the seams with the "wrong" sides together (usually the side with the heavier texture).  Press the seams gently, and then topstitch them in place on the outside of the garment.  On edges and for hems, I do the same thing; roll the fabric to the outside and topstitch in place. 

   Run some samples with the fabric to see what it will do.  I think you'll find it is fun fabric to sew!

   Shannon

    

1. 
   Scoitap | Aug 28, 2005 04:51pm | #2

   Thanks Shannon.  I didn't think about needle size at all.  I'll try some samples and see how the seams will look.

   Thank you

   Paula

1. 
   ShannonG4d | Aug 28, 2005 08:38pm | #3

   Paula, I've learned the hard way that using the right needles can make a huge difference in the finished product! 

   Another quick note about this fabric.....interfacing will not be easy to use with this fabric.  Try to find patterns that have minimal need for interfacing......or avoid it altogether.  You can, if you like, shave off the napped side of the fabric, so you'll be able to use the non/fur side (the suede) on two sides, such as for a button band, but it's a lot of mess and trouble.  I prefer to avoid the issue altogether and just do a turn-back cuff, zipper, or something that will adapt to the fabric in a better way.

   Shannon

1. 
   Scoitap | Aug 30, 2005 02:36am | #4

   Hi Shannon,

   Thanks again.  The pattern I have chosen is very simple design - Vogue 7627.  The cuffs and collar just fold back so there isn't any interfacing there.  I'll have to take a closer look at the button holes.

   Paula

1. 
   AshaOz | Aug 30, 2005 05:57am | #5

   I found that the best way to make buttonholes in such fabric is to just stitch around the placement in a rectangle and then cut the buttonhole slit to suit the button. As the fabric is quite stable, there is no need for any stitching to reinforce the slit.

2. 
   Scoitap | Aug 31, 2005 12:44am | #6

   Thanks so much for the tip.

   Paula