Hello!
I am a beginning sewer and would like to develop a sloper based on my measurements but have had trouble finding this information. Does anyone know of a book or site which allows one to draft from measurements. The reason i prefer not to start with a pattern is that I’m 5’10” with wide shoulders, a tiny bust (smaller than a-cup), a long torso and very little waist definition. The patterns I’ve found are so widely different from my measurements that it seems like it would be easier to build something up from scratch. In addition most of the info I’ve found on altering patterns is geared towards the busty-shorter-sloping shoulder crowd. Not that there is anything wrong with that but it doesn’t help me much 🙂 Any ideas are appreciated.
Replies
If you dare try to do this alone - you could start with a basic fitting pattern and cut everything with at least one inch seam allowances and extra length. Instead of a fold down the center front cut the muslin down the center front with an extra inch overlap like a jacket. Now pin it together and start to fit. Always pin the front center seam first (it is there just to get you into and out of it) mark the bust points, pin in any darts and seams. Make sure the grain lines stay straight. You can draw neckline and arm holes (or enlist the help of a husband or friend). You may have to take it off and on twenty times, but it does work. When you get everything fitting, draw the darts and seams and waistline lines on before removing the pins and cut off the excess fabric. You will have a pattern. Transfer it to paper and even up the darts as needed. Then try cutting something out of another fabric - maybe with a back zipper this time. Each time you do it you will get closer to the real thing. Then you can compare it to a purchased pattern to see what the differences are and what changes you have to make and you will make these changes with each new pattern you try. A sewing friend would be a big help!
Drafting a Sloper - Video Tutorials
Here are several videos about drafting slopers http://sew-whats-new.com/main/search/search?q=sloper
Drafting slopers from body measurements
Patternmaking for fashion design will teach you everything you need to know about slopers, flat patterns, dart manipulation, fitting, ease, and adding or decreasing fullness.I went to the art institute in miami for a BFA in Fashion Design and this is the textbook we used and it's fantastic. Goodluck and enjoy making art/clothes!
This has been a very informative and free lesson on how to make one, I hope to start this once my kids are off to school.
posting for anyone else who may wander into this thread after the fact
http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/constructing-the-basic-bodice-block
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