I recently bought a 3 yard piece of stretch demin. My deliumma is how to fold the fabric in order to layout the pattern for my shorts. If I stick with the rule I’ve always known and the selvegde ends match up the stretch of the denium is going the wrong way(up & down the length of the pant leg) There is also a small vine like ptrint goimg through it and when folded “corret” the pattern goes aound instead of up & down. If I fold the fabric what I would consider “crossgrain” the strech is in the right direction and so is the pattern on the denim. Is it ok to just change the way to fold it and still have it hang right after you finish constructing the garment? Please help!
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Replies
Yes, you may cut the shorts so that the stretch is around your body. FYI, if you plan to use a waistband you might want to cut in on lengthwise grain to avoid excess stretch. I don't use a waistband, just facing for more comfort, so I use the selvage of linings as a "free" stabilizer on all my pants with facings to prevent stretching--both stretch and non-stretch fabrics.
Yes, by all means cut "cross-grain". This happens with many of the newer stretch wovens. I found out the hard way a few years ago with a stretch faux leather microfiber. I never thought to check!
They have actually started weaving them this way so as to save on fabric when sewing trousersuseing the width of the fabric as the trouser length. .Always sew with the stretch going around you . When sewing on a waistband or a facing use a non stretch stay tape in the seam between facing/band and pants or after a little while your crotch seam will be approaching your knees.Denim is a heavier fabric and this particularly so with it.( the voice of sad experience)
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