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underlining

Ralphetta | Posted in General Sewing Info on

About a week ago there was an extended discussion about underling.  (Not the current one about “warmth.”)

I happened to just see a really good article/pictures in Threads 20 called The Garment Within the Garment, why couturiers love underlings and how they use them.

This article may have already been mentioned…if so…”never mind.”

Replies

  1. zuwena | | #1

    HI,

    Could you be a bit more specific about the edition of Threads that contained the article.  Thanks. Z

    1. SewNancy | | #2

      The article listed in the index for lining with silk organza is issue 97, pages 67-71. But over the years there have been other articles, one in particular was by Sandra Betzina.

    2. Ralphetta | | #3

      The article I was referring to is #20 (Dec 1988-Jan1989) and is called the Garment Within the Garment on page 58.

  2. Catherine2 | | #4

    Is underlining the same as interlining??

    1. Ralphetta | | #5

       

      I believe interlining is done for warmth and is not necessarily done for the entire garment.   

      The most common example of underlining..is with a lace garment.  Underlining is cut from the main pattern pieces.  It is applied to each fashion-fabric piece separately. (I have read that it should be basted, NOT serged/sewed together at this step, that may only be one opinion.)  When the garment is assembled the two fabrics are treated as one.

      Although interlining and underlining may sewn in a similar manner they are for different purposes and use different kinds of fabrics.

      1. Catherine2 | | #6

        Thanks for that, I think that it is one of those Australian / American variations in terminology things ....

    2. zuwena | | #7

      A couple of weeks ago there was a rather long, lengthy thoroughly absorbing discussion about underlining, interlining, and interfacing.  You might want to check the archives under, I believe, "another underlining question" and something similar for the full discussion.  I'm not sure it will "clarify" things but it might help you decide what you want to do in a specific instance regardless of what you call it.   Zuwena

      1. Catherine2 | | #8

        It was only the terminology that I was unclear about; as it is used in the States. I have always used interlinig to add weight to a fabric so a taylored jacket could be made from a light weight fabric. Underling is added to a garment where there is likely to be stress for strengtheneing and interfacing is used to stiffen collars, cuffs etc. 

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