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Ralphetta | Posted in General Sewing Info on

About a week ago there was an extended discussion about underling.  (Not the current one about “warmth.”)

I happened to just see a really good article/pictures in Threads 20 called The Garment Within the Garment, why couturiers love underlings and how they use them.

This article may have already been mentioned…if so…”never mind.”


  1. zuwena | | #1


    Could you be a bit more specific about the edition of Threads that contained the article.  Thanks. Z

    1. SewNancy | | #2

      The article listed in the index for lining with silk organza is issue 97, pages 67-71. But over the years there have been other articles, one in particular was by Sandra Betzina.

    2. Ralphetta | | #3

      The article I was referring to is #20 (Dec 1988-Jan1989) and is called the Garment Within the Garment on page 58.

  2. Catherine2 | | #4

    Is underlining the same as interlining??

    1. Ralphetta | | #5


      I believe interlining is done for warmth and is not necessarily done for the entire garment.   

      The most common example of underlining..is with a lace garment.  Underlining is cut from the main pattern pieces.  It is applied to each fashion-fabric piece separately. (I have read that it should be basted, NOT serged/sewed together at this step, that may only be one opinion.)  When the garment is assembled the two fabrics are treated as one.

      Although interlining and underlining may sewn in a similar manner they are for different purposes and use different kinds of fabrics.

      1. Catherine2 | | #6

        Thanks for that, I think that it is one of those Australian / American variations in terminology things ....

    2. zuwena | | #7

      A couple of weeks ago there was a rather long, lengthy thoroughly absorbing discussion about underlining, interlining, and interfacing.  You might want to check the archives under, I believe, "another underlining question" and something similar for the full discussion.  I'm not sure it will "clarify" things but it might help you decide what you want to do in a specific instance regardless of what you call it.   Zuwena

      1. Catherine2 | | #8

        It was only the terminology that I was unclear about; as it is used in the States. I have always used interlinig to add weight to a fabric so a taylored jacket could be made from a light weight fabric. Underling is added to a garment where there is likely to be stress for strengtheneing and interfacing is used to stiffen collars, cuffs etc. 

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